DYKH-TAU (Main), North Ridge - Cat. 4B

The initial bivouac is at "Russkie nochevki" (Russian Campsite).

From "Russkie nochevki":

• Follow a horizontal talus shelf to the glacier.
• The icefall is located in the zone where the glacier meets the rocky outcrops of the spur from the West Ridge of Misses-Tau; bypass it either to the right or via rocky shelves.
• Above the icefall lies a gentle part of the glacier and the beginning of the West couloir of Misses-Tau.
• Traverse the glacier, skirting the base of the buttress that extends from the large gendarme on the North Ridge of Dykh-Tau to the right.
• Ascend the glacier along the buttress to the right of the gully (rocks) with a stream.
• Reach the saddle on the North Ridge to the right of the large gendarme via a firn slope (avalanche hazard).
• There are bivouac sites available on the saddle.

From "Russkie nochevki" 4-6 hours.

In case of heavy snowfall, the Western slope of the North Ridge is prone to avalanches. An alternative route to the saddle is possible:

• The ascent begins via the West couloir of Misses-Tau.
• Where the couloir narrows and steeply ascends to the saddle (100-120 m above the left tributary), move to its right side (rocks).
• Ascend a snow-ice slope for 100-120 m to a shelf below the tower of the large gendarme.
• Traverse the shelf to bypass the gendarme to the right.
• Ascend the snow slope to the saddle.

From "Russkie nochevki" 4-5 hours.

From the saddle:

• Ascend the snow slope, bypassing the first three rock steps to the right, and then reach the ridge.
• Ascend a snowy slope and easy rocks to the first gendarme.
• It is possible to bypass the gendarme via snow to the left.

Beyond the gendarme lie the so-called "VCSPS nochevki" (VCSPS Campsite) at 4480 m.

From the saddle 5-7 hours.

From the campsite:

• Ascend 180-200 m up a snow slope, bypassing ice drops to the right, to a saddle on the North Ridge where it meets the Northeast buttress.
• From the saddle, ascend 120-150 m to the left of the ridge (cornices).
• Then reach the ridge.

The ridge leads to a 10-meter rock gendarme, which is climbed directly or via its right part.

The route continues along a snowy ridge with cornices and sections of snow-covered rocks, leading to the summit.

Bivouac sites can be organized in the snow hollows on the ridge.

From "VCSPS nochevki" to the summit 8-9 hours.

Descent:

• Follow the ascent route down to "VCSPS nochevki" 4-5 hours.
• Descend (early departure) from the saddle to "Russkie nochevki" 3-5 hours.

Recommended itinerary:

• Day 1 - Reach "Russkie nochevki".
• Day 2 - Ascend to the North Ridge and along the ridge to "VCSPS nochevki".
• Day 3 - (Take the tent) Climb to the summit and descend to "VCSPS nochevki".
• Day 4 - Descend to "Russkie nochevki" and return to camp.