- Main Dykhtau via the West Ridge — Cat. 4B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Velikson, A. Davydov, S. Kalinkin and V. Kustovoi — August 23, 1940). The route from the “Bezengi” alpine camp to “Russkie nochyovki” is described in route 71. From “Russkie nochyovki”, 15–20 m up the West Ridge of the Missestau peak, then 120–150 m along the horizontal ledge on its right side — exit onto the glacier plateau. Across the glacier plateau to the right under the slopes of the North Ridge of Dykhtau (avalanches! icefalls!). The North-East counterfort descending from the North Ridge is traversed along simple rocks, under the wall of the rocky ascent of the counterfort. Further along the glacier, then up a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons for belay!) — ascent to the West Ridge of Dykhtau. From “Russkie nochyovki” — 2–3 hours. Up the 100–120-meter snow and 450–500-meter rocky West Ridge of Dykhtau. All small gendarmes are passed along the ridge or circumvented along the ledges on the left. The Big Gendarme is circumvented along icy rocks with a 40-meter traverse on the left (pitons for belay!). From the last gendarme — a 50–60-meter descent into a snow corrie. A bivouac is set up in the corrie. From “Russkie nochyovki” — 13–14 hours.
From the corrie, 120–150 m up the snowy ridge and slope, then up a 350–400-meter rocky ridge to a snowy saddle under a wall of large rocky blocks. From the saddle, upwards along a vaguely defined 50–60-meter edge between two couloirs, then along ledges exit into the right couloir and 80–90 m up it to where it becomes an icy vertical 40-meter chimney with a wedged stone at the top.
Up the chimney (without backpacks! pitons for belay!) and after 25–28 m, exit the chimney to the right onto the wall. Up the wall to a ledge above the wedged stone. From the ledge, circumvent the upper part of the wall to the right along rocks of medium difficulty and 80–100 m upwards (pitons for belay!) to a snowy shoulder. Circumventing the wall from the ledge is also possible from the left with an ascent to the shoulder along the rocks on the left side of the couloir (pitons for belay!).
From the shoulder, upwards along the rocks on the left or right side of the couloir and after 100–120 m, exit onto the North Ridge of Main Dykhtau. A bivouac is set up on the ridge.
From the bivouac under the wall — 8–10 hours.
From the corrie, along the snowy ridge, exit under an 8–10-meter gendarme, which is passed:
- either in the center
- or along the right wall (pitons for belay!)
Further along the snowy ridge (cornices!) with sections of simple, destroyed, snow-covered rocks and a 3-meter crevice — ascent to the summit of Main Dykhtau.
From the point of exit onto the North Ridge — 3–4 hours.
Descent along the ascent route or along the North Ridge (see description 71). Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants — 4–5 people.
- Initial bivouac — “Russkie nochyovki”.
- Departure time — 3–4 a.m.
- Equipment: main rope — 2 × 40 m; auxiliary cord — 5 m; rock pitons — 10–12; ice pitons — 5–6; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10–12; crampons — 4 pairs; tent — 1.
- Bivouac locations — on a ledge under the rocky ascent of the North-East counterfort, in the lower part of the snowy West Ridge, in a snow corrie, on a snowy saddle under the wall, on the North Ridge.