Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF NEROYKA MOUNTAIN VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 1B, BY THE UGRA ADVENTURE TRAVEL CLUB TEAM FROM FEBRUARY 23, 2024, TO FEBRUARY 23, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the Ascent

via the right part of the counterfort of the East wall bastion in Takhtarvumchorr (C) (1144 m), 4B–5A category of difficulty. Khibiny. Takhtarvumchorr Ridge Leader: A.V. Yurkin Coach: A.V. Yurkin

Ascent Passport

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain massif. "Poyasov" Cirque. Classification table section number: № 8.6. (according to KGBM 2013)
2. Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr Central (1144 m), route "Golfstream", via the right part of the counterfort of the E. wall bastion.
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B–5A

Report

On the first ascent

to Takhtarvumchorr Central peak (1143 m) via the right part of the E wall, category 5A (proposed), by a team from St. Petersburg from June 17, 2023, to June 18, 2023.

Climbing Passport

Report

Teams from St. Petersburg

On the ascent of Mt. Angvundaschorr, 1120 m

Route on the left edge of the S wall, 2B category of difficulty, first ascent 21.06.2012

St. Petersburg

2012

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Lovozerskie Tundry mountains, Sengis-yok river valley, nearest section 8.6

Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).

Sokol - 3

Knife edge, 3B grade.

(S. Nadtochiy — O. Leviash — V. Chumachenko, 2005)

R0–R1: 50 m, 5a. Protection on trees. Belay station on a large ledge on a tree. R1–R2: 55 m, 5c+. Protection is conditional, points won't withstand a light jerk. Small nuts, possibly pitons. List:

• Belay station on a ledge
• To the left of a "dead" sapling. R2–R3: 55 m, 5c+. In the beginning of the pitch, 8–10 meters of climbing is done without

Sokol — 10

Two Cornices 5A cat. dif. (A. Shelkhakov — D. Popov, autumn 2000)

R0–R1: 25 m, 5a. Careful climbing on a ruined crack, insurance is not easy to organize. Station on a bolt and own gear (going further is difficult due to friction). R1–R2: 15–20 m, 5a. Slab climbing, insurance on bolts + own. Station on a bush. R2–R3: 25 m, 5b. Slab climbing, own insurance on an overgrown crack (pitons, nuts). Station on a small tree. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5a. In the direction of a large tree. Insurance is easy to organize. Station on a tree. R4–R5: 15 m, 5B. Traverse on a slab to the left upwards. Station on two bolts. R5–R6: 35–40 m, 5C+. From the station, a couple of meters to the left and then up after a bolt, into a crack. Along it to the end, then up the slab, own insurance, at the end of the slab a bolt leading to the right. Station in a niche on a shelf, to the right of a chimney, on bolts. R6–R7: 20–25 m, 6B+. Return to the base of the chimney (there is a bolt) and then 15 m up. Then to the left wall of the chimney (there is a bolt during the transition), then 7–8 m to the station under an overhang. Station on bolts. R7–R8: 15–20 m, 6B+, A1. Up the crack through an overhang, after exiting to a vertical — move to the right by climbing. Station on a tree.

So­kol — 16

Along the counter­forc­ed left breast 5A cat. diff.[№24]

R0–R1: 45 m, 6b+. Climbing a system of internal corners with an exit to the ridge, with a problem to organize belays, especially in the upper part. Requires a safety margin in climbing and mental toughness. Belay station on a bolt + own gear, under an overhang on the left. Quite a dangerous transition to the station, from the ridge under the overhang! R1–R2: 30–35 m, 6c+, A2. Climbing:

• Left and then up to the right
• Unpleasant climbing on jammed rocks
• Further up a vertical crack in the direction of a tree Belay: own + three bolts available (one new). Especially dangerous is the exit to the tree. Station in an internal corner after the tree on own gear. R2–R3: 25–30 m, 5B. Simple climbing on corners and cracks with easy belay organization (careful climbing on live rocks). Station on a ledge on own gear. R3–R4: 50 m, 6A+. Careful climbing on a system of ledges and internal corners in the direction of a large gnarled tree. Belay is easy to organize. Station in a niche behind the gnarled tree… sinking in fallen leaves.

Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *

This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lav­ri­nen­ko. The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall. From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized). On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV). On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).

2. Time of ascent. Krasnodar cranes to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Agepsta Main, 3261 m, along the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, length of sections: I — 80 m; II — 520 m; III — 340 m; IV — 55 m; V — none; VI — none.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for descent, etc. rock 21, ice, bolt
7. Number of walking hours — 9 hours.