Description of the ascent route to the summit of Iz Zapadnaya Shkheldy Tau via the north wall.

9–10 from the overnight stay, moving up along the destroyed ridge with small scree, approximately 200–220 m long, with an exit to rock shelves. Along the shelves, moving left, we bypass the rock wall approximately — rope lengths. Having bypassed the wall, moving up to the left of the feather-like rock ridge approximately 150–150 m long with pitons protection. Further, the route goes along the wall, representing a cascade of shelves, snow-covered and iced. Rocks protruding from the wall do not have protrusions convenient for belaying. Piton protection, length 3.0–4.0 rope lengths. Moving further, we approach a large horizontal shelf (width 100 m, length about 10 m),

Ascent Passport

1. Class of technical (winter) ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge.
3. Shkhelda Second Western (4310 m), via the northern wall "The Night Before Christmas".
4. Proposed category: 5B difficulty level, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m (by altimeter), length — 2400 m. Length of 5th category difficulty sections — 800 m. Length of 6th category difficulty sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°, main part — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 12, friends — 15, ice screws — 65. Left on the route: rock pitons — 2.
7. Team's travel hours: 23 hours and 2.5 days.
8. Overnights: 1st in a tent on a snowy ridge, 2nd in a tent under a rock outcropping, sitting.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of SHKELDA Second Western, 4310 m, via the southern wall, accomplished by the team from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society:

• AKHTYRSKII O.A. — CMS USSR "Burevestnik" — team captain
• KOVALENKO Yu.I. — CMS USSR -"-
• KOVALEVSKII V.A. — CMS USSR -"-
• SALTYKOV V.M. — CMS USSR -"-
• SHKLYAEV E.V. — CMS USSR -"-

REPORT

on the ascent (first ascent) of p. Zvezdniy via the right part of the South wall (proposed 5A(5B) category of difficulty) I suggest considering it as 5B for the group. Balezin V. V. Participants:

• Smaikina S.V.
• Kovaleva A.V.
• Coach Temerev I.M.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2008 classification table – 6.2

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus. Elbrus Region, Adyr-Su gorge. 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Name of the peak: Dzhailyk (4533 m); "Big Chimney" 3rd wall of the South Ridge shoulder.
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, new variant of D. Laskavy's route, 78; 2.4.1.38 according to KMGV.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 550 m. Route length: 900 m. Average slope: 40° from R0 to R6. Wall section from R2 to R6: 70°.
6. Hooks left on the route: 2 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion (Korablin's route)
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 910 m, of which 490 m is the wall section; total route length is 1330 m, of which 540 m is the wall section. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 280 m 6th category of difficulty — 180 m
6. Average steepness of the wall section — 68°

Passport

I class — snow-ice 2. Main Caucasian Range, Adyrsu river gorge 3. V. Ullutau via the north face of the eastern shoulder (D. Chernoslvin's route) — 4058 m. 4. Difficulty category — 5B. 5. Height difference 950 m, length — 1020 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 230 m. Average steepness of the ice part of the route 50°, rocky part — 65°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, chocks — 46, ice screws — 102. 7. Climbing hours — 16.5 hours. 8. Overnight stay — snow platform on the ridge. 9. Leader — Andryushkevich Konstantin Ivanovich, CMS. Participants — Panarin Nikolai Dmitrievich, CMS, Foigt Alexander Vadimovich, CMS, Chan-syan Anatoly Vladimirovich, CMS.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Zub Dragona, 2050 m, 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, length 750 m, average slope 23°.
6. Pitons driven: chocks 7, pitons 0.
7. Climbing hours 4, days 1.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION FASIL ST. PETERSBURG

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering in the high-altitude and technical class 2012

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MISSES-TAU (4427 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5B cat. dif. team captain: Molodozhen V. A. team coaches: Lobachev E. A. Timoshenko T. I. St. Petersburg 2012

Ascent Passport

Ptiitsa via S ridge, cat. 3B.

Route description

From the "3900" bivouac move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi Glacier. The fourth step of the glacier is climbed near the rocks of the W ridge on Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi (piton!) or through the center (crevasses!) of the glacier. Then, follow left with minor ascent to approach the slopes of Ptiitsa (1.5–2 hours). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of S Ptiitsa, left of a weakly expressed couloir. From here, ascend slabs (60 m) and then an inclined ledge up and right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir which, 40 m later, will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall of S Ptiitsa, ascend rocky outcrops and snowy-icy sections (piton!), 120–140 m, to a rocky niche. From here, ascend a steep icy chute (60 m) (piton!) to a snow patch that leads to the saddle between Ptiitsa and the dome. Two rope lengths before the saddle, sharply turn left into a narrow couloir. In the couloir, first ascend ice, then rocks, to a crevice with ice flow, which will lead to a snowy ledge 5–6 m from the summit, a rocky pyramid. Time required to ascend from the plateau — 5–6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route:

• First, rappel (2 × 40 m) to the snowy slope.