Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus. Elbrus Region, Adyr-Su gorge. 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Name of the peak: Dzhailyk (4533 m); "Big Chimney" 3rd wall of the South Ridge shoulder.
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, new variant of D. Laskavy's route, 78; 2.4.1.38 according to KMGV.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 550 m. Route length: 900 m. Average slope: 40° from R0 to R6. Wall section from R2 to R6: 70°.
6. Hooks left on the route: 2 pcs. including drilled hooks: 0. Previously hammered hooks used: 0. Used for TSD: 12. Total used on the route:
   • rock hooks — 18
   • ice screws — 0
   • chocks — 32
7. Team's travel hours: 13.5 hours; days: 2 days.
8. Leader — Pavlov S., 1st sports category (Voronezh). Participants — Shchepachkov S.E., MS (Troitsk, Moscow Region).
9. Coach — Shchepachkov S.E. — MS.
10. Departure to the route: July 31, 2001. Summit ascent: July 1, 2001. Return to camp: July 2, 2001.

Shchepachkov Sergey Evgenievich Troitsk, Moscow Region Oktyabrsky pr-t, 19, apt. 30, schepa@mountain.ru

Dzhailyk, 3rd wall of the South Ridge shoulder

• Team's route, 2001.
• "Monakh" by V. Ruzhevsky, 67; 5A
• D. Laskavy, 78; 5B
• V. Lee, 83; 5B

UIAA Scheme

Brief description of the route passage

July 30, 2001 11:00 — departure from Ullutau alpine camp. 17:00 — stop on the glacier under the South Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.

July 31, 2001 8:00 — departure from the bivouac. 9:00 — start working on the route.

R0–R1 — easy rugged rocks about 300 m. This is the common ascent path to the key sections of the routes: "Monakh" by D. Ruzhevsky, 67, 6B; D. Laskavy, 78, 7B; V. Lee. Described in many reports. 13:00 — stop at the site for overnight stay — R1. Tent setup. 14:00 — start processing the key section of the route.

R1–R2 — traverse left-down 20 m to the start of the key section through easy rocks.

R2–R3 — start of the key section. First, 12 m up a slab with difficult slalom sections, then traverse left 6 m to the base of the Big Chimney and further up the wet rocks of the chimney for another 15 m of complex climbing.

R3–R4 — difficult climbing up the wet rocks of the chimney. 40 m. 18:00 — descent to the tent. Rain started.

August 1, 2001 8:00 — departure from the bivouac. 9:30 — start working above R4.

R4–R5 — wet chimney. Combination of heavy free climbing on wet rocks and TSD. 15 m. Then free climbing through a cornice with a 3 m pitch on a narrow chimney clogged with chocks. Exit to dry rocks and then to a ledge crossing the entire wall.

R5–R6 — up the rocks of medium difficulty 40 m to the South Ridge. 13:00 — exit to the South Ridge. Further path coincides with the routes: "Monakh" by D. Ruzhevsky, 67; D. Laskavy, 78; V. Lee.

R6–R7 — about 350 m simultaneously on easy rocks to the summit. 15:00 — summit. 17:00 — descent to the tent.

August 2, 2001 9:00 — start of descent. 12:00 — descent to the glacier. 16:00 — return to camp.

Information about the route and recommendations for future groups

This route is beautiful and logical. Apparently, it was previously climbed, as evidenced by a rock hook and a cigarette butt hammered into a crack.

It's safer to set up a tent on the site under the "Monakh" route, but at this time several groups were working on Dzhailyk, and fearing stones dislodged by other groups, we set up a tent to the left.

Water flows through the chimney, which is formed as a result of melting ice clogged in the chimney under the upper large cornice covering the chimney. In our opinion, the optimal time for climbing the Big Chimney is the end of summer. In dry conditions, it's possible to avoid using TSD.

Starting the route without bivouac equipment means deep confidence in the stability of the weather.

The "Kleshnya" gendarme is bypassed, as usual, to the left. There's ice there! Don't forget to bring at least one pair of crampons per group.

Climbing leader Sergey Pavlov died on August 15, 2002, during an ascent to Dalar peak. Thanks to those who will choose this route on Dzhailyk.