Ptiitsa via S ridge, cat. 3B.

Route description

From the "3900" bivouac move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi Glacier. The fourth step of the glacier is climbed near the rocks of the W ridge on Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi (piton!) or through the center (crevasses!) of the glacier. Then, follow left with minor ascent to approach the slopes of Ptiitsa (1.5–2 hours).

From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of S Ptiitsa, left of a weakly expressed couloir. From here, ascend slabs (60 m) and then an inclined ledge up and right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir which, 40 m later, will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope.

Along the wall of S Ptiitsa, ascend rocky outcrops and snowy-icy sections (piton!), 120–140 m, to a rocky niche. From here, ascend a steep icy chute (60 m) (piton!) to a snow patch that leads to the saddle between Ptiitsa and the dome.

Two rope lengths before the saddle, sharply turn left into a narrow couloir. In the couloir, first ascend ice, then rocks, to a crevice with ice flow, which will lead to a snowy ledge 5–6 m from the summit, a rocky pyramid.

Time required to ascend from the plateau — 5–6 hours.

Descent is via the ascent route:

• First, rappel (2 × 40 m) to the snowy slope.
• Then descend the snowy slope to the rocks.
• From here, sport descent (6 × 40 m) to the snow.

Time required to descend to the plateau — 3.5–4.5 hours.

Required equipment for a group of 4:

• Rock pitons — 10 pcs.
• Ice pitons — 4 pcs.
• Hammers — 2 pcs.
• Crampons — 4 pairs
• Cord for climbing — 10 m
• Protection slings