Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, T. Tsush­ko, A. Kho­men­ko (Odes­sa)

Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle.

From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall.

R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:

• under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
• under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
• up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.

40 m VI A2–A3

R1–R2 25 m. Up the wall to the left of the tree. Then to the right onto a ledge, from it to the left up an inclined slab to a ledge, there's a bolt. Here the route joins route #7 "Grish­chen­ko".

R2­–­R3 35 ­m. Up into a corner, then along the corner, using old bolts for orientation. From the corner, up and right (there are two bolts, hard to see) — to a shallower slope. Climbing left and up to a ledge with a bolt.

• 25 ­m VI A2
• 10 ­m V­–

R3­–­R4 40 ­m. Up to a bush, there are holes for skyhooks. From the bush, 6 meters left and up to a tree. Then to the right and up a slab, there are holes for skyhooks and an intermediate bolt. After the bolt, a complex traverse:

• to the right,
• then up a slab with intermittent cracks.

Station on a small ledge on personal anchors. 40 ­m VI A3

R4­–R5 50 m. To the right for 10 meters and along a gentle ridge 10 m up. Then along gentle slabs and ledges, exit to the base of an internal corner. Station on personal anchors. 10 m III 40 m II

R5­–R6 55 m. Up the corner to gentle rocks, along them to approach a depression. There's a bolt, higher and to the left another bolt and a platform for a tent. 20 m V; 35 m II

R6­–R7 40 m. Along destroyed rocks to the right to an overhanging internal corner. Up the corner to a bolt, then climbing 10 meters. Station on a small ledge on personal anchors.

• 10 m V
• 20 m A2
• 10 m V+

R7­–R8 40 ­m. Up the corner, interesting climbing for 30 meters (large protection elements), exit to a ledge. From the ledge up destroyed rocks to a pine tree. Station.

• 25 ­m V
• 15 ­m VI A2

R8­–R9 40 ­m. To the left of the pine tree to a destroyed internal corner, then up the corner (there's an old bolt). Exit to a ledge and traverse left to a bolted path. Along bolts, then climbing left and up to a pine tree, the rock is destroyed.

• 10 ­m VI A1
• 20 ­m V
• 10 ­m V+A1

R9­–R10 50 ­m. From the station, traverse left to a tree, then up destroyed rocks over the ridge crest. Station on a tree.

50 ­m IV R10­–R11 55 ­m.

Along the ridge to the summit tower.

Station on a large pine tree.

55 m I

R11–R12 30 m.

Along simple rocks, then through a destroyed wall to the summit.

30 m III.