The representative of the Leningrad team, before our departure on the route, remarked that the passage of the declared path does not solve the main problem of the wall — passage through the center via the hanging glacier. In our opinion, this "problem" does not exist, as during our stay in the base camp and passage of the qualifying route, the problematic route was regularly "hit" by ice and snow avalanches of varying power, but always sufficient for the "problem" to remain a problem. One of the main characteristics of the object of ascent is the length of possible ascent routes from the Tamykul gorge. 3 km would be the minimum length of the path if it were possible to lay it through hanging glaciers from the foot of the mountain straight up to the summit. In this regard, when ascending Tamykul, athletes pass through a number of climatic zones. At the same time:

• at the bottom, during the hours when the wall is lit by the sun, the heat is suffocating;
• at the top, only down-filled equipment, windproof clothing, and continuous movement help to combat the piercing cold wind. Such is the multifaceted nature of the mountain, making the ascent to its summit difficult but interesting.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

2.1. Exploration of the Area

The Tamdykul peak area is one of the least explored by climbers. This is evident from the fact that this highest peak in the Alay Range is not even mentioned in domestic mountaineering publications, nor is the adjacent massif of peak 5529 to the east. This is partly explained by the fact that:

• from the north, it takes several days of travel to see the alluring walls of these peaks;
• from the south, where the mountain can be reached in 2 days with a load and in 1 day without, these peaks do not appear as attractive to climbers, who see them from a helicopter on their way to more appealing giants of the Academy of Sciences Range.

Russian Alpine Championship 2019 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

on the ascent to Zamin-Karor 1st Western peak 4303 m via the northwestern wall, 6A category of complexity (O. Kapitanova), made by the team from the Republic of Tatarstan from August 1 to August 4, 2019. Kazan, 2019

Ascent Passport

n. Promezhutochny (4234)

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
3. Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route character: rock
6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. V. Zamok, 5070 m, via the center of the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1646 m, including wall section — 886 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 586 m, including sections with 6 cat. diff. — 268 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Region: Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via Central Wall 4. Presumed Difficulty Category: 5B, first ascent 5. Route Characteristics: total height difference 860 m, average steepness 64°, including technical sections 76°, route length 1215 m, and sections with technical difficulty (m) 1 — 300, 2 — 30, 3 — 150, 4 — 250, 5 — 372, 6 — 113 6. Pitons Driven: for protection, removable + закладки 134, ice screw

Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge, Alaudin Valley.
3. Chapdara peak (5053 m) via North-West wall
4. First ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative), combined
5. Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 465 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775)
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice |

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;