Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge, Alaudin Valley.
3. Chapdara peak (5053 m) via North-West wall
4. First ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative), combined
5. Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 465 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775)
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice |

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;

Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley.
3. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face.
4. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Region — Fan Mountains 3. Peak — Moskva, 5183 m via the north wall through the hanging glacier 4. Anticipated Difficulty Category — 6B 5. Route Description: Total height difference — 1480 m. Characteristics of the wall section (rock and ice): height difference — 1290 m, including 131 m of ice wall, length — total — 1474 m, including 142 m of ice, sections of category V difficulty — 462 m, " — 15 m, category VI difficulty — 484 m, " — 95 m. Average steepness of the wall — 76°, including the lower

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak — Peak 5224 m (proposed to be named "Peak Pierre de Coubertin"). Route: first ascent via the center of the Southeast face
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1734 m (3490 m – 5224 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1520 m, of which 6 category — 1010 m, average steepness — 79°
6. Number of pitons driven and chocks used for belays (numerator) and creation of artificial anchors (denominator): rock — 261/37, ice stripping — 13, chocks — 131/64

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. Akhun peak (5224 m) via the right counterfort of the Southeast wall 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1734 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1752 m. Of which 6 category of difficulty — 829 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 82.5°
• route overall — 76°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Ascent Route with indication of peaks and their heights 4. Characteristics of the Ascent technically challenging route (Pamir-Alay) p.S. Andreeva from the northwest via bastion 5127 m a) height difference 1200 m including bastion wall 620 m b) average steepness (including ridge) 74° c) average steepness of the bastion wall 88° d) length of the most difficult sections 1000 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock 209, ice 7, bolt 13