n. Promezhutochny (4234)

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
3. Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route character: rock
6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. V. Zamok, 5070 m, via the center of the northeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, route length — 1646 m, including wall section — 886 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 586 m, including sections with 6 cat. diff. — 268 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 80°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Region: Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via Central Wall 4. Presumed Difficulty Category: 5B, first ascent 5. Route Characteristics: total height difference 860 m, average steepness 64°, including technical sections 76°, route length 1215 m, and sections with technical difficulty (m) 1 — 300, 2 — 30, 3 — 150, 4 — 250, 5 — 372, 6 — 113 6. Pitons Driven: for protection, removable + закладки 134, ice screw

Russian Championship in Mountaineering, high-altitude technical class. 2018

Report

of the Sverdlovsk region team on the ascent via the right part of the northern wall to the peak Parandas, 4640 m (Fan Mountains). 6A route Arkhipov. July 27-29, 2018 Yekaterinburg, 2018 General photo of the northern wall of peak Parandas.

Route Passport

1. Route classification: High-altitude technical.
2. Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains (northern part).

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents
2. Fann Mountains
3. Chapdara, 5000 m via North Ridge
4. 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference — 1281 m, length — 1985 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 585 m. Average steepness of main sections — 55°, of the route — 42°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35, chocks — 42, ice screws — 17

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge, Alaudin Valley.
3. Chapdara peak (5053 m) via North-West wall
4. First ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative), combined
5. Height difference — 1650 m, length — 2230 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1055 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 465 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°. Average steepness of the wall section — 77° (3400–4775)
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolt | Ice |

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area - Fan Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Chapdara, 5297 m, via the center of the Southeast-Eastern wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the wall section of the route: height difference - 1050 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. - 1005 m, of which 6 cat. diff. - 510 m, average steepness of the wall - 80°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying - rock - 168, bolt - 6, for creating ITO - rock - 31, bolt - 3
7. Number of climbing hours - 66
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water; 2,3 - on a rock ledge, sitting, without water;

Ascent Report

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights via NNE wall of CHAPDARA 5297 m first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1947 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m (including 700 m of 6B category) average steepness of the wall section — 87°.
6. Pitons hammered and chocks used for protection, for creating artificial support points:

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley.
3. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face.
4. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty.