Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov peak, 3341 m, via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 640 m, average slope 35°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Taran N. S. CMS, Afanasyev A. E. CMS.

Report

On the first ascent

The peak Bronenosets (2430 m) - Right part of the Western wall - Route 3B cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent - Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Anisovets S.Yu.
• Valiev V.O.
• Vasin I.K.
• Marzaev A.Yu.
• Tsynguev B.Ts.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Pogrebetsky via n.d. from the North

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuksu glacier and, bypassing the northeastern ridge of the Molodezhnaya peak, move along the middle of the glacier to its drop. Then deviate to the left and, bypassing large stones at the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuksu peak, reach the snow-ice step, then cross the right outflow of the Tuyuksu glacier and approach the northern wall of the peak, then continue moving under the rock outcrop along the snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°. This section is dangerous: rockfalls and ice break-offs are possible. Therefore, it is recommended to start the route earlier, so that two-thirds of the path can be overcome before

Route Description.

The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit. The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks. Descent:

• It is safer via Tuyuksu pass. Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.

Peak Choibolsan (4191 m)

Western ascent — Cat. 1B (Fig. 6)

Peak Choibolsan, resembling a rock tower, is located in the watershed ridge system, in the upper reaches of the Ozernaya River valley. The northern side is covered in ice, with rock ridges approaching from three sides, connecting it to:

• the Ozernaya peak to the east,
• the unnamed "4200 m" peak to the south,
• Almaty Alagir to the west. The northern side of the massif drops off with a nearly sheer wall, whose steepness decreases somewhat at the base. Fig. 6

As­cen­sion cer­tifi­cate

1. As­cen­sion re­gion:
2. Tian-Shan, 7.10 Tes­key-Ala­Too ridge, Ka­ra­kol gorge
3. Peak 4130 m via east­ern coun­ter­fort and N-E ridge
4. Pro­posed cat. 2B. First as­cen­sion.
5. Na­ture of the route — com­bined
6. Route ele­va­tion gain 500 m (by al­ti­me­ter)
7. Route length 800 m
8. Used on the route: ice hooks — 12, rock and nut pro­tec­tion — 0, bol­lard hooks — 0

Traverse of Peak Karniz (2B category)

From the camp located in the middle of a flat gravel area of the upper modern erosion base of the Researchers and Chon-Turasu glaciers (altimeter reading 3500 m), we head towards the sheer wall of Peak Skala, to the place where these glaciers almost connect with each other. On the site, we easily jump over several small streams (they may not be there early in the morning and at low temperatures) and begin to ascend along the last stream before the moraines - this stream flows in the right direction for a long time. On both sides remain:

• chaotic accumulations of moraines (up to 30-40 m high);
• closed ponds of various shapes, sizes, and colors;
• huge blocks of dead ice, exposing their icy sides from under the moraines. In some places, the dead ice is exposed, and the ascent on it is inconvenient and often impossible: crampons slide along with the fine gravel, and cutting steps is difficult - the ice axe hits the pebbles, and large stones slide down from above. During the reconnaissance, a small mudflow occurred 15 m behind us; the diameter of the stones in the stream reached 1 m. To the right remains a 50-meter tongue of the Chon-Turasu glacier. We follow the stream until it disappears into the stones, then turn right, ascend to the ridge, and move along it for about 200 m. Then we go around the glacial lake on the left (it appears to be enclosed between the glacier tongue and the dead ice). The lake is surrounded by ice on all sides, and falling into it would make it impossible to get out without outside help. There are many such lakes near the tongue.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks