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Description of a Category 3B complexity route to the top of Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya (3950 m) via the West face in the Southern spurs of the Gissar Range, Pamir-Alay.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category — rock.
  2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Hissar Range, upper reaches of the Igizak River.
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya, 3950 m, via the right part of the Western wall.
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 310 m, average steepness — 60°, total length of sections — 350 m: 2nd cat. difficulty — 120 m, 3rd cat. difficulty — 170 m, 4th cat. difficulty — 60 m.
  6. Number of rock pitons for belaying — 16, number of chocks for creating artificial support — 5.
  7. Number of travel hours — 7.
  8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
    1. Arakcheev P. P. — leader, 1st sports category.
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Description of a 4A category complexity route to the summit of Vostochnaya Varvarovskaya Pila (3600 m) via the south-eastern wall in the Gissar Range.

The ascent class is rock. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit, its height, and the ascent route — Eastern, Varzobskaya Pila peak 3600 m via the southeast wall. Estimated category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics:

  • Height difference — 250 m
  • Average steepness — 65°
  • Length of sections: 1 — m; 2 — m; 3 — 60 m; 4 — 200 m; 5 — 50 m; 6 — m Pitons driven:
  • For belaying — 56
  • For creating rock I.T.O. — 53
  • Ice — ------
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level in Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

Ascents

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
  3. Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;
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Report on the ascent via a Category 6 route on the NW wall of I-ya Zapadnaya Zamin-Karora Peak (4,303 m) on Yaghnob Wall.

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Yagnob wall
  3. Peak, its height and climbing route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1353 m; route length — 1670 m; average steepness — 87°; section lengths: 3rd category of difficulty — 200 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 10 m, 4th category of difficulty — 250 m, 5th category of difficulty — 640 m, 6th category of difficulty — 570 m.
  6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 201 pcs; chocks — 83 pcs; bolt pitons — 2 pcs.
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Ascent to Festival'naya Peak (4350 m) via the left buttress of the northern wall, grade 3B, height difference 400 m, duration 8 hours.

  1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
  6. Number of pitons driven:
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Description of a new Category IIb climbing route to the summit of Khyrsh (3,760 m) via the West Face from the Kulay-Javan cirque in the Hissar mountain range.

Ascent Record

  1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
  3. Peak — Khyrс, 3760 m, from Kulay Djavanom glacier via the shortest route.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m, average steepness — 65°.
  6. Number of pitons driven — 17,
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Pамир's Fan Mountains via the right side of the wall, category 5B complexity.

Passport

  1. Class of ascent — high-altitude technical.
  2. Area of ascent — Pamir. Fann Mountains.
  3. Ascent route — p. Bodkhona 5304 m via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kolchin)
  4. Characteristics of the ascent:
    • height difference — 1500 m;
    • length of complex climbing — 1300 m;
    • average steepness — 65°
  5. Number of pitons:
    • rock — 122
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Description of the ascent route to the summit Borts za Mir (3800 m) via the northwestern spur of the western ridge, category 2B, in the Fann Mountains.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area: Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Bortsov za Mir, 3800 m, via the northwestern spur of the western ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m (3400–3800 m); total route length — 1400 m; average steepness of key sections — 60°;
  6. Number of pitons (including chocks):
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Description of the ascent route to the summit VEI (4400 m) via the western edge in the Fann Mountains, category of difficulty 3B, with a description of the path and technical details.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. VEI, 4400 m, South-West ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — none average steepness 45°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15
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A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and visual illustrations that facilitate understanding of the climb's tactics and strategy.

Fig. 17

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