Activity Feed
Route Description: 3 стене
Description of a Category 3B complexity route to the top of Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya (3950 m) via the West face in the Southern spurs of the Gissar Range, Pamir-Alay.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category — rock.
- Ascent region — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Hissar Range, upper reaches of the Igizak River.
- Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Yuzhnaya Bivachnaya, 3950 m, via the right part of the Western wall.
- Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 310 m, average steepness — 60°, total length of sections — 350 m: 2nd cat. difficulty — 120 m, 3rd cat. difficulty — 170 m, 4th cat. difficulty — 60 m.
- Number of rock pitons for belaying — 16, number of chocks for creating artificial support — 5.
- Number of travel hours — 7.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
- Arakcheev P. P. — leader, 1st sports category.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
Description of a 4A category complexity route to the summit of Vostochnaya Varvarovskaya Pila (3600 m) via the south-eastern wall in the Gissar Range.
The ascent class is rock. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit, its height, and the ascent route — Eastern, Varzobskaya Pila peak 3600 m via the southeast wall. Estimated category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 250 m
- Average steepness — 65°
- Length of sections: 1 — m; 2 — m; 3 — 60 m; 4 — 200 m; 5 — 50 m; 6 — m Pitons driven:
- For belaying — 56
- For creating rock I.T.O. — 53
- Ice — ------
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to Peak Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level in Pamir-Alay.
PASSPORT
Ascents
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
- Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the ascent via a Category 6 route on the NW wall of I-ya Zapadnaya Zamin-Karora Peak (4,303 m) on Yaghnob Wall.
- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Yagnob wall
- Peak, its height and climbing route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 6B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1353 m; route length — 1670 m; average steepness — 87°; section lengths: 3rd category of difficulty — 200 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 10 m, 4th category of difficulty — 250 m, 5th category of difficulty — 640 m, 6th category of difficulty — 570 m.
- Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 201 pcs; chocks — 83 pcs; bolt pitons — 2 pcs.
Route Description: левой части С кф.
Ascent to Festival'naya Peak (4350 m) via the left buttress of the northern wall, grade 3B, height difference 400 m, duration 8 hours.
- Class of ascent — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
- Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
- Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
- Number of pitons driven:
Route Description: с л. Кулай-Джованон
Description of a new Category IIb climbing route to the summit of Khyrsh (3,760 m) via the West Face from the Kulay-Javan cirque in the Hissar mountain range.
Ascent Record
- Ascent type — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
- Peak — Khyrс, 3760 m, from Kulay Djavanom glacier via the shortest route.
- Estimated difficulty category — 2B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m, average steepness — 65°.
- Number of pitons driven — 17,
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona (5304 m) in the Pамир's Fan Mountains via the right side of the wall, category 5B complexity.
Passport
- Class of ascent — high-altitude technical.
- Area of ascent — Pamir. Fann Mountains.
- Ascent route — p. Bodkhona 5304 m via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kolchin)
- Characteristics of the ascent:
- height difference — 1500 m;
- length of complex climbing — 1300 m;
- average steepness — 65°
- Number of pitons:
- rock — 122
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Description of the ascent route to the summit Borts za Mir (3800 m) via the northwestern spur of the western ridge, category 2B, in the Fann Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Bortsov za Mir, 3800 m, via the northwestern spur of the western ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m (3400–3800 m); total route length — 1400 m; average steepness of key sections — 60°;
- Number of pitons (including chocks):
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру
Description of the ascent route to the summit VEI (4400 m) via the western edge in the Fann Mountains, category of difficulty 3B, with a description of the path and technical details.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
- Peak, its height, ascent route — p. VEI, 4400 m, South-West ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — none average steepness 45°
- Pitons hammered: rock — 15
A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and visual illustrations that facilitate understanding of the climb's tactics and strategy.
Fig. 17