Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NNW), 3887 m, via the center of the right bastion on the NW wall (Voronin route).
3. Proposed category: 6B in winter, third ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 1127 m. Length of the wall section: 1165 m. Section lengths:

2005 Russian Mountaineering Championship. Technical Ascents Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team of the Dagestan Alpine Federation (combined team of the Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry) on Erydag (NW), 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, category 6B.

Addresses

354003, Krasnodar Krai, Sochi, 151-a Plastunskaya St., Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry, tel.: (8622) 68-03-03, 68-02-02 367015, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, 17 Erliha St., Dagestan Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry Tel./fax: (8722) 67-23-75 Photo of the wall profile from the right, at 3300 m, from K. Dorro's route, February 2000.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
6. Left on the route:
   • rock pitons — 5
   • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
   • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9

Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation

of Arkhangelsk Region

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical and High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent of the team from Arkhangelsk Region and Tatarstan Republic to the summit of Erydag Northwest, 3887 m, via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, following Shanovazov's route, 2005, category 6B Leader: Dmitry A. Rybalchenko Participants:

• Mikhail A. Veshchagin
• Rasim G. Kashapov

Passport

1. Character of the route — rocky
2. Eastern Caucasus, Shakhnabad and Kusarчай river gorge
3. Shahdag East via the 3rd bastion
4. Category 5A difficulty — first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1225 m, length — 2435 m Length of category IV–V sections — 100 m V category difficulty — 235 m, V+–VI category difficulty — 30 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 63°
6. Hooks left on the route (not hammered out) — 2 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangезur ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — peak of the Alihanyan brothers, 3710 m, via the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 420 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 80 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:

Traversing Kozelskaya Sopka from northwest to southeast with ascent to Zub Kozelsky via the northwest wall – category 3A (Figure 4)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, overnight stay in the Kozelsky Creek valley (see description for Zub Kozelsky – 1). On the right side of the canyon, across the moraine-covered glacier, bypassing a rock massif on the right (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine, exit into a wide snow-ice couloir with a slope of 30–35°, descending from the false pass. Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir, exit to the false pass in 2.5–3 hours. Movement is in teams. In the upper part of the couloir – 5 ropes, alternate belay. It is advisable to wear crampons, as there are sections of dense firn and ice in the upper part. From the false pass – ascent via a ridge leading to the western summit below a large gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left in the direction of travel:

• 3 ropes
• step cutting
• piton belay (it is possible to drive pitons into the gendarme wall) After bypassing the gendarme, exit onto a ridge leading to the western summit of Kozelskaya Sopka via a cleft (1 rope, belay).

Koryakskaya sopka from northwest to southeast — category III (Figure 6)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky along the Yelizovo highway to the 31st kilometer, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and left from "5th Stroika" along the river through the bridge in the direction of the pass between Koryakskaya sopka and Arik along the forest roads of old logging sites, orienting towards a clearly visible spur leading to the summit, into the valley of a nameless dry river. On foot along the dry river to the lower part of the spur, which begins not far from the pass between Koryakskaya and Arik, at the forest boundary. Overnight stay. Nearby stream and firewood. Time taken to approach — 4–5 hours. From the dry river valley along the northwest spur (landmark — in the upper part of the spur, a plume of smoke from active fumaroles is constantly observed) in the direction of the summit. Rocks of medium difficulty, many gendarmes, most of which are bypassed. Overall steepness of the spur — 40–50°. In the middle part of the spur, three 5–6 m walls are traversed directly with piton belay. From the upper part of the spur, exit along a snow-ice slope (40–45°, 3 ropes) into a small depression near the pre-summit saw (southern edge of the old crater, filled with ice). Second overnight stay. Open areas, strong wind. From the second overnight stay along the pre-summit saw, exit onto the summit dome. Rocks are solid. The middle section of the saw is traversed on horseback (2 ropes). The saw gradually turns into a ridge, which drops off at the base of the summit dome with a 3–4 m wall (rappel). Exit to the summit 2–3 ropes — ice covered with a layer of fine volcanic scree (piton belay).

v. Yuzhnaya, along the edge of the NW wall of Ganal'skiye Ostryaki Ridge, Kamchatka. Led by Bichenko A.N. Climbed on May 3, 1995, report compiled on May 25, 2000.

Passport

1. Category — rock.
2. Kamchatka, Ganal'skiye Ostryaki ridge.
3. v. Yuzhnaya, along the edge of the northwest wall.
4. Assumed 5B cat. diff., second ascent.
5. Height difference — 480 m, length — 695 m, length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 247 m.
6. Pitons left on the route — 11 (including 3 bolted).

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4