Passport

I. Altitude class. 2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via the right part of the north face. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2760 m, length — 3795 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2260 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 59.5° (4235–6895), including 6B category of difficulty 70° (5400–6030), 70° (6330–6620). 6. Pitons driven:

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88.
4. Route type – combined

Passport

1. CATEGORY OF CLIMBING ROUTE.
2. TIAN-SHAN, TENGRI-TAG RANGE.
3. Peak KHAN-TENGRI VIA LEFT PART OF NORTH FACE.
4. PROPOSED 6B cat. dif., FIRST ASCENT.
5. ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE 2700 m, ROUTE LENGTH 3920 m.
6. LENGTH OF 5–6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 1405 m. LENGTH OF 6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 375 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF THE WALL PART OF THE ROUTE — 61°.
7. PITS SET: | ROCK PITS | ICE SCREWS | PLACED PROTECTION |

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Tien Shan, North Inylchek Glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m, via the center of the North Face.
4. Proposed category: 6B, variation.
5. Elevation gain — 2700 m, distance — 3550 m Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1430 m, including 185 m of 6th category. Average steepness — 55–58°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :---: | :--: | :--: | :---: | | 151/3 | - | 211/3 | 12 |

PASSPORT

1. Altitude-technical class
2. Tian-Shan
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m), via the South face
4. Proposed - 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference – 2700 m, length – 4750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity – 2680 m. Average steepness of the most difficult sections is 50° (4700 m–6700 m).
6. Pitons hammered: ice – 138, rock – 57, bolted – 2.
7. Team's travel time: 88 hours and days – 10

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Tsentralny Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier
3. Peak, route: Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via Southeast wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B, 2nd first ascent
5. Height difference: 2500 m

• total route length — 3140 m
• wall section length — 2500 m of which
• 5th category of difficulty — 2100 m

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Khan-Tengri peak, via the center of the East Face
4. Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 2000 m, route length — 2420 m Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1340 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 67° (5000–6700 m). Including:

• 80° (80 m)
• 85° (140 m)
• 90° (80 m)

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge
3. Khan Tengri peak, 6995 m, via the right part of the East face
4. Proposed - 6B cat. sl. first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 1865 m, route length - 2280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl. - 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 64° (5220-6795), including 6 cat. sl. sections: 80° (5550-5570), 85° (5730-5755), 85° (5855-5865), 90° (6135-6155), 80° (6580-6590), 85° (6720-6760).
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-----------------: | :--: |

Passport

1. Category of First Ascent
2. Tian-Shan, South Inylchek
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the center of the East Face
4. Proposed — 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference — 2000 m, length — 2950 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 2905 m
   • Average steepness of the main part of the route 48° (5020–6700)
   • including 6 category of complexity: 85° (5850–5900); 55° (6350–6400); 70° (6610–6650)
6. Pitons driven:

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 of the classifier
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m), from the S. Inylchek glacier along the center and couloir of the Northern wall, Mylovsky's route
3. Submitted — 6B cat. diff.
4. The nature changed
5. The route height difference — 2810 m Route length — 4316 m Length of sections:
   • V cat. diff. — 81 m
   • VI cat. diff. — 5 m Average steepness: