Combined route, category 4B

Path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier.

From the hut (departure at 3–4 am):

• Cross the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the Tyrolean ice-snow right (first) ridge of the Northern wall of Zaromag peak, north of the Northern ridge and behind it, the waterfall of the glacier descending along the Northern slope of the Western ridge of Zaromag. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend 200–250 m along the right side of a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche rockfall). Then turn right and reach the rocks on the left side of the Northern ridge of Zaromag peak. From here:
• ascend simple rocks
• ascend scree
• reach the saddle of the Northern ridge. On the saddle, turn left, along the steep, sharp, heavily broken, and snow-covered rocky Northern ridge, approach the First wall. Bypass the wall on the right with a 90–100 m traverse along steep, above average difficulty, broken rocks (“live” stones — piton protection) to reach the buttress on the right side of the Northern ridge. Further along steep, average difficulty, broken, and in places sharp rocks of the 150–170-meter buttress, with several 3–5-meter walls above average difficulty, then ascend the walls leading to the Northern ridge (piton protection).

“Live” rock - piton protection, with several small gendarmes and narrow, short saddles, ascend to the site of the East shoulder of the ascent between two small gendarmes. From the site, overcoming a small gendarme head-on, cross the saddle and via steep rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the ridge, ascend to the Big gendarme. The Big gendarme can be initially bypassed on the shelves on the left side, then via steep couloirs (“live” rocks, protection) ascend behind it to the snowy saddle under the 3rd gendarme. The gendarme is overcome head-on via rocks of medium difficulty. Bypass the 4th gendarme via steep destroyed rocks, with an exit above the saddle under the gendarme. This gendarme is passed via rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge, then via the sharp snowy 200–250-meter ridge (cornices), via simple rocks the ascent to the summit of Zaromag. From the gendarme “ZIL” hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 3 days.

86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

Moscow Order of Lenin Aviation Institute

named after Sergo Ordzhonikidze

Ascent

to the summit of Mamisong Khokh via the right edge of the North face (approximately 5B category of difficulty) First ascent. Group leader: V. Obruchnikov. Coaches: Master of Sports of the USSR L. Puchkov Master of Sports of the USSR M. Zinin

Report on the First Ascent of Mamison-khokh Peak via the North Face to the Eastern Peak of Mamison-khokh (left edge) approximately Category 5B difficulty

Mamison-khokh Peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Chancha-khokh (4461.0) and the Ronketti massif (3982). To the east of the Main Mamison-khokh Peak, a spur extends, dividing the Tsey Glacier into northern and southern cirques, which contain:

• Eastern peak of Mamison-khokh;
• Nikolaev Peak;
• Khitsan-khokh;
• Khitsan Pass. The North Face of Mamison-khokh Peak drops into the northern cirque of the Tsey Glacier with three distinct edges (see photo).

Report

of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964 The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders.

Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group

The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east. The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky. The most significant peaks are:

• Uilpata-tau
• Chanchakhi-khokh

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern part of the Central Caucasus, Bolshaya Tseyskaya horseshoe
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Mamisong, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 995 m length — 1468 m average steepness of the route — 50° average steepness of the wall section — 73°

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, Eastern spur of Kaltberg peak
3. Peak, route: Monakh (2760 m) via the left Southeastern edge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 460 m — of which the wall part is 410 m — total route length is 520 m — wall part length is 450 m — of which: 5 — 175 m

Russian Alpine Federation Classification Commission We request to include in the classification table a route to the peak Kaltberg East, 3300 m, with an ascent via the NE wall of Monakh (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty), climbed by a team of instructors from the "Tsey" alpine camp during the III Championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps in 1983 (rock climbing category). The ascent report was submitted at the time, but apparently was not reviewed due to technical reasons. Vice-President Alpinism Federation of Ukraine Zagirnyak M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey valley

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge.
3. Mt. Passionaria, 4000 m via the chimney of the Western bastion wall and NW ridge.
4. Proposed: Category 5B difficulty for first ascent (second ascent).
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1150 m. Length of Category 5B–6 sections — 160 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 85° (3400–3560 m).
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 32, bolted: 0, chocks: 25, ice: 0.
7. Team's travel time — 9 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Leader — Leonid Borisovich Volkov, Master of Sports.