166-a

2B 1.3.14a

PASSPORT I. Climbing category: first ascent 2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Sofiysky Glacier area. 3. Pik Uchebnaya - Pik Barnaul traverse. 4. Category proposed: ZA. 5. Elevation gain: 600 m, distance: 3250 m. 6. Pitons were not used. 7. Climbing time: 8 hours.

Passport

1. Class of ascents: first ascents
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, area of Sofiysky glacier.
3. Uch. 1–4 traverse S ridge with Kol. Leningradtsev.
4. (Uch. 4–1 traverse along S ridge.)
5. 2B first ascent is proposed (in both directions).
6. Height 3400 m. Height difference 400 m. Length 1450 m.
7. 2 cams
8. 8 hours
9. Leader: Barnov Sergey Ivanovich, 1st sports category.

PASSPORT

1. Category of first ascents.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
3. Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope.
4. Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
5. Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m.
6. Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay.
7. Climbing hours: 14.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.

Passport

1. First ascent
2. Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge
3. Mt. Yablinsky V. via E slope of N ridge
4. Proposed category 3A, complexity level 2B
5. Height 3650 m, elevation gain 400 m, distance 700 m
6. Pitons: ice screws 12 pcs.
7. Climbing hours 10 from bivouac to bivouac 5 h from glacier to glacier

2. via N.-W. buttress, 2A 3. via left edge 3A 4. via right S.-W. buttress, 2B 5. via W. wall, 3B 6. via right W. buttress, 3B

Via North-Western Buttress, category 2A

The route is the closest from the base camp. Begin the ascent along the right tributary of the Uluun river, after 5-7 minutes, and after crossing the river, start climbing up to the right along the slope with a gradual exit to the North-Western buttress. The steepness of the buttress gradually increases. The movement takes place on snowy, uncomplicated rocks. After an hour of ascent, the buttress flattens out significantly and turns into a forty-meter snowy ridge. Further movement is carried out directly along the buttress on snowy uncomplicated rocks with simultaneous belay. After 30-35 m:

• On a three-meter inclined plate, hook belay with alternate movement is necessary.
• Above the plate, there is a snowy shelf convenient for belay.

2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A cat. 3. via left edge, 3A cat. 4. via right S.-W. counterfort, 2B cat. 5. via W. wall, 3B cat. 6. via right W. counterfort, 3B cat.

Ascent via right South-West counterfort, 2A cat.

The approach from the base camp to the start of the ascent takes 20–25 minutes (see the description of the ascent route along the South ridge, 1B cat.). The beginning of the ascent along the counterfort is a snowy slope 150 m long. In the middle of the slope, on the right side, there is a dangerous section - an avalanche-prone couloir, it should be crossed from left to right, and it is necessary to pass it before 7:00 am. Then it is necessary to traverse a 40 m long snow corrie. Further, 100 m along a heavily snowy ridge to the beginning of the difficult key section of the route. Pass 40 m through the chimney on the left, bypassing the forked gendarme, into a two-meter gap. The gap should be bypassed on the right. Then 40 m between the walls, through the chimney. After it, pass 20 m to the exit to the pre-summit ridge. And along it 120 m to the summit. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Descent along the South ridge, via the 1B cat. route.

Safety assessment of the route

Via Western spur, Cat. II

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Uluun River. Begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the right of the Western spur, sticking to the rocks. After 30 minutes, exit left onto the spur, which consists of snowy, non-technical rocks. After 80 m, the ridge becomes steeper. Approach an 8-meter wall, in front of which, lower on the ridge, a control cairn is built. The wall is climbed by alternating movement up to the left. Continue along the not-so-steep ridge for 65 m. A small 5-meter wall is encountered. The ridge turns left and abuts a 7-meter wall, to the right of which there are internal corners and large walls. Move up one of the internal corners with alternating belays. Continue with simultaneous movement along the ridge, which drops off to the right with large walls up to 60 m deep. Moving along the ridge, reach the walls of a "gendarme," which is climbed from right to left via small walls and an internal corner (first crux). Climbing is quite challenging for winter conditions; hook belays with rope protection are required. To the right, 80-meter walls with a frozen waterfall between them are visible. After passing the crux, move 55 m with simultaneous belays along the ridge. The ridge is snowy; then exit onto inclined snowy slabs. Hook belays with rope protection are necessary (second crux). After 30 m, enter a wide snowy chimney; after 50 m of movement through it, exit back onto the ridge. Small "gendarme" features on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. After 80 m, approach an 8-meter internal corner and a 15-meter wall above it. After passing them, exit back onto a gentle ridge leading to the summit. Descend from the summit via the Category I route. Total ascent time is 5-6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.

Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:

• 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
• the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:
• ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
• then move to the right slab,
• moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further:

• A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
• The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:
• Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
• Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.