1.2. ASCENT REPORT. Region — Altai. Peak — Pik 2000-letiya khristianstva, approximately 3500 m. Route — Combined. Expected category of difficulty — 2B. Height difference — 800 m. Distance — 1200 m. Average slope — 30°. Technical equipment used — ice screws, crampons, ice axes. Climbing hours — 8–9 hours from the bivouac.

10 173 2А

1. Class - first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Dvoynaya (C) via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed 2A cat. difficulty (first ascent).
5. Height 3480 m, elevation gain 540 m, length 1250 m, average slope 25 °.
6. 11 hours of climbing time (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stays - no need.
8. In a team of two: Drakin A. V., CMS; Okhremenko I. N., 1st sports category.
9. Coach Drakin A. V., 1st category No. 68.

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
2. Peak Dvoynaya Severная via Beloe Plecho, height 3600 m (marked on the map M 1:50 000).
3. Proposed - 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type - ice and snow.
5. Elevation gain: 600 m; length - 1800 m. Average slope of the route - 20-25°. Average slope of the main part of the route (up to Beloe Plecho) - 25-35°, length - 1200 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws - 25.
7. Team's travel time:
   • 6 h 20 min from the glacier to the summit;

PASSPORT

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Range, Aktru gorge.
2. DVS (3700 m) via the north-eastern ridge.
3. Category 3B proposed (first ascent)
4. Elevation gain 450 m, length 820 m.
5. Ice screws 23 pcs.
6. 14 hours from base camp to base camp.
7. No overnight stay necessary.
8. Shlekht A. CMS Nemtsev S. 1st sports category

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.
4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).
5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stays required.
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

Traverse Korumdu - Aktru 4A cat.

Approach from Aktru base in Ak-Su gorge - 3 - 2.5 hours. The beginning of the route is the exit to the ridge of the Korumdu massif (orographic left ridge in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended exit to the ridge at the border of the greenery with the scree. Movement along the 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. There are at least three places for overnight stays on the ridge (with platforms for tents). The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome along a crack with hook insurance (1 rope). After bypassing the last gendarme, there is a descent to the left to a small blue lake, after which the main, complex combined part of the route begins. At the lake, at the subsequent two snow-ice pockets of the ridge, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The main ice ascent (4 ropes - 40°) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. In the left part, rockfall is possible from the rocks located above, even in the morning hours. After exiting onto the snowy ridge and a short ice ascent (1 rope) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, approaching from the right. Further movement is to the left: first along the snow, then along the steep firn (3 ropes). A relatively small rocky gendarme is bypassed on the right, then:

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Kupol via North-West slope.
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty (the group of first ascensionists KSYUTUR of the Altai Krai under the leadership of Nazarenko V.A. in 1993 assessed the route as 3B, which is clearly overestimated).
5. Elevation difference 650 m, length 1900 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Drakin A.V., CMS

39

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.

Passport

1. Class: Second ascent (first ascent done by Semenov S.A. and Dumaĭskaya E.L. in 1999).
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Okhotnik peak via NE ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2A.
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 1090 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Duration: 12 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of ascent to the saddle to the start of descent.
8. Leader: Drakin A.V., CMS, participants:
   • Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category;