Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!

Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Description

Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route.

Route Conclusion

The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks. On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Klukhor-Bashi 3450 m

via the glacier on the northern slope. Category 1B difficulty. Presumably Category 1B difficulty. Ascent on September 8, 2022. Semenov M. A. - Master of Sports, team leader Maksimov K. M. - experienced, second-class climber Alpclub - "Mountain Madness"

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Fig. 1

1. Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1)

The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack

Bolshaya Marka

Fig. 11

Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)

From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours. Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge. Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:

• proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
• reach the ridge,
• then traverse ledges to the summit.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.