10 173 2А

1. Class - first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Dvoynaya (C) via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed 2A cat. difficulty (first ascent).
5. Height 3480 m, elevation gain 540 m, length 1250 m, average slope 25 °.
6. 11 hours of climbing time (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stays - no need.
8. In a team of two: Drakin A. V., CMS; Okhremenko I. N., 1st sports category.
9. Coach Drakin A. V., 1st category No. 68.

Ascents 2428

1. Class of Ascent: Rocky.
2. Area of Ascent, ridge: Central Altai. North-Tuy­sky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route of Ascent: **P. Zelinsky 3500 m northern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 1000 m. Length of sections: 5–6 c.t.: 200 m. Average steepness: 50-60%.
6. Number of piton drivenforbelay: Rock.
7. Number of travel hours:16–17 hrs.

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, KMGV section number — 1.2.
2. Summit — Pik Kapitsy P.L. (3720 m), category 3B.
3. Proposed category — 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 700 m (by altimeter). Route length m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty m, VI category of difficulty m. Average slope: main part of the route — degrees, whole route — degrees.
6. Approach to the key point in crampons, belay through rock formations, 1 rock anchor hammered.

Passport

1. Class of technical ascents.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karagem gorge.
3. Karagem peak (3) via the northern wall.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 1250 m, length — 1450 m, average steepness — 54°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — , ice — 8, chocks — 136.
7. Climbing hours: 29 hours, 2 days.
8. Overnight stay on a platform made on the ridge.
9. Leader: Sergeev Viktor Platonovich — Master of Sports, 658218, Altai Krai, Rubtsovsk, 64-14 Svetlova St.

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.
4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).
5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stays required.
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

Central Altai. North-Tuinsky ridge. 112. Ridge. 113. Peak, its height, ascent route: 114. Khrasavitsa 3700 m via the northern wall 115. Required difficulty category: 3 116. Route characteristics: Terrain height 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — Average steepness 40–50° 117. Number of insurance hooks: Steel 6, Aluminum 3 118. Number of via ferrata pegs: 14–16 pcs. 119. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Kupol via North-West slope.
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty (the group of first ascensionists KSYUTUR of the Altai Krai under the leadership of Nazarenko V.A. in 1993 assessed the route as 3B, which is clearly overestimated).
5. Elevation difference 650 m, length 1900 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Drakin A.V., CMS

Description of the Ascent of the Northern Ridge of Kurkurek Peak in the North Chuya Range

The actual climbing route along the northern ridge of Kurkurek begins after the climbers, having left their camp, descend to the transfer base at the beginning of the Aktru gorge and then ascend through the windfalls and debris of the taiga to the foot of the peak. Although this does not relate to the climbing difficulty of the ascent, it requires a significant initial expenditure of energy from the sports group over 8–10 hours. A bivouac, from which the ascent up the northern ridge of the peak begins, can be set up on the ridge itself. Initially, it is not difficult, starting as a steep grassy slope (1 hour's walk), followed by a gentle (25°) fine and medium talus, and then a steeper (35°) coarse quartz talus. Further along, the ridge becomes more pronounced but remains easily passable, as its ascents are not steep, and the width of the ridge is sufficient for setting up a tent. From the river at the tongue of the Kurkurek glacier to the extremely convenient sites for an overnight stay, located directly on the ridge, it takes approximately 3 hours. The overnight stay is located about 900–1000 meters below the peak. The path is then blocked by six more or less pronounced gendarmes composed of shale rocks. The first three gendarmes are bypassed on the right, the fourth and fifth are climbed head-on, and the sixth is traversed on the right along a ledge at the boundary of a snowfield that steeply descends onto the Kurkurek glacier between the northern and northwestern ridges of the peak. The time required by the group to overcome this section is 2.5 hours.

V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.