ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the "Otkola" couloir to the Takhtarvumchorr ridge crest, 1143.5 m.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m. Walls: Length of sections, cat. diff.:
   • 2 — 151
   • 3 — 500

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to the peak of Akademik Kalesnik via the buttress of the eastern wall, approximately category 3B difficulty. From the base camp, located on the upper forest boundary, on the right (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River, ascend the gorge through thickets of birch, willow, raspberry, and rhododendrons. After the vegetation ends, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River. Then, with a gradual gain in altitude, move towards the sharp black moraine. Before reaching it, turn sharply to the right and move towards the gap in the "ram's foreheads". Ascend a wide couloir with scree and a stream to the tongue of the glacier. The glacier tongue is at an altitude of 2700–2750 m. Then, exit to the right, beyond the rocky ridge, gaining altitude, and reach a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–45°. Move straight up this snowy slope for 400 m, then exit to the left through the rocky ridge onto the glacier. Then, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope of the glacier for 600 m on crampons. The slope's steepness is 50–55°. Move in rope teams, using the entire rope! The slope leads to the upper plateau of the glacier. The altitude of the upper plateau is 3000 m. Then, traverse 500 m across the glacier towards the wall of peak Akademik Kalesnik. The slope's steepness increases after the first 500 m and reaches 15–20° for the next 500 m. The last 100 m have a sharply increasing steepness, reaching 50–55°. In front of the wall, there is a very wide randkluft, which is a serious obstacle on the way to the wall. It is necessary to descend into the randkluft and then start working on the wall at a depth of 8–10 m from the upper edge of the randkluft.

Passport

Ascent

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Layub, 2998 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4–6.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections: R0–R1 — 450 m; R2–R3 — 230 m; R4–R5 — 640 m; R5–R6 — 320 m. elevation gain 1000 m; average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven — for belay — for exceptional circumstances.

The summit of PESHTERA is 3070 m and is located in the North-Eastern spur, running from the junction near the summit of Velbashi (3243 m). It rises like a rocky pyramid above the valley of the left tributary of the Sofia River, which flows into the latter near the "Syrzavod" glade. To the northwest of PESHTERA, separated by a col with an absolute height of 2800 m, are the rocky bastions of the summit named "60th anniversary of KChAO" (2970 m). Both summits are visible from the "Syrzavod" glade, where the base camp was located during the winter alpinism event (see orographic scheme, photo ©). The 3070 m summit, as an object of first ascent, was proposed by the coaching council of the federation to a group of athletes under the leadership of R.A. Gorda. The only acceptable approach from the point of view of avalanche safety was the eastern spur of the NE ridge, descending from the Eastern pre-summit of the "60-let KChAO" peak (consultations with candidate of geographical sciences, avalanche specialist VGI in Nalchik, Mr. Runich A.V.). From the "Syrzavod" glade with an absolute height of 1930 m, descent to the Sofia River and in the area of the mouth of its left tributary - crossing the river in the direction of the Eastern spur, leading to the NE ridge of the "60 let KChAO" summit. Along the spur, overgrown with forest in the lower part, straight up, leaving avalanche-prone slopes on the right and left. Having gone beyond the forest boundary, continue to move along the watershed line to a group of separate trees and further - to the last spruce, from which the rocks of the spur begin. The mentioned spruce is visible from the "Syrzavod" glade. Further along the wide rocky spur - exit to the junction point of the NE ridge, having a mark of 2590 m (660 m height difference). Here is the starting point of the route (2-3 hours of ascent along a pre-organized snow trail).

Route Description

Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

41

Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

Report

On the Ascent

TO THE SUMMIT OF FISHT 2867 m VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY BY THE "FREELINE" MAC TEAM FROM JUNE 28, 2024 TO JUNE 30, 2024 2024

I. Ascent Passport

R21 List:

• R24–R25 120 m, 20°, 2
• R23–R24 300 m, 15°, 1
• R22–R23 120 m, 50°, 2
• R21–R22 250 m, 15°, 1 2350 m May 6, 1985 R20 300 m, 65–60°, 2 List:
• R19 20 m, 95°, W/Al
• R18 20 m, 45°, 2

Ascent to Tsyndyshko 2nd North peak via the North edge

Group composition

1. Gorshenev K.A. — 1st sports category — leader, participant
2. Gorbachevsky A.D. — 1st sports category, instructor (No. 2584)
3. Volkovsky V.Z. — 2nd sports category, participant
4. Semenov M.I. — 2nd sports category, participant.

Day one (approach to the route)

April 28, 1974 Departure from the base camp at Kardyvach lake at 15:00, upwards along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the Upper Mzymta river to a group of large boulders beneath the walls of Layub Eastern peak. Then, upwards to the right across a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, leading to a saddle beneath Northern Tsyndyshko peak. The journey from the base camp takes 3–3.5 hours. Overnight stay on the saddle. From here, the beginning of the route is visible. This part of the path was prepared: steps were trodden to the ridge connecting to Northern Tsyndyshko peak.

Day two

Fig. 4

4. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana. From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and