General photo of the береговая

• route 5­А cat. diff. 45
• коняновы route
• route via к­/ф 3 cm. 76 kg

1. Ascent Passport

Region — Central Tien-Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Peak — Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the left part of the West Face. Proposed — 5A cat. diff. first ascent. Route character — rock climbing

Route Characteristics

height difference of the route — 500 m. height difference of the wall part of the route — 260 m. route length — 850 m. length of the wall part of the route — 290 m. average steepness of the route — 41°. average steepness of the wall part — 76°. length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 90 m, 5 cat. diff. — 155 m.

Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Beliy Pik from the Southeast (approx. Category III difficulty) (Alaarchinsky spur of Kyrgyz Ala-Too)

The first ascent was made on July 21, 1968, by two groups of Leningrad climbers from the base camp at the confluence of the Alamedin and Jyndy-su rivers. Group Composition: Kheysin D.E. (leader), MS Koltsov A.I. (leader), Naryshkin B. 1st sports category, Mikheev L.N. 1st sports category, Fedorenko Yu. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.G. 1st sports category, Yakovlev Yu.V. 1st sports category.

Brief Geographical Description and General Route Characteristics

The summit of Beliy Pik is located east of Lermontov Peak on the same spur, which bounds the Dzhindy-su valley to the south. The ridges extending from the summit to the east and southeast descend towards the Alamedin valley and bound the Kок-zoo valley and glacier (name taken from Marechek's map). The route is snow and ice with short rock sections. The height of Beliy Pik is 4650 m.

Route Description

From the base camp, follow the right (here and further along the route) bank of the Alamedin River (trail) up to the first lateral valley on the right (hanging valley) (40 min). Turn right and ascend steeply up the scree, and after the inflection, continue up the moraines to the gentle tongue of the Kok-zoo glacier, where the river is hidden by moraines. Cross the center of the open glacier to a narrow, steep icefall between rocky spurs (4 hours); overnight stay on the right moraine.

B. Boxs, 4240 m, via N. Stena, 4A comb., as a duo Fedorov S. January 30, 7:15 — Exit from Khikhina Promin M. 10:00 — control point NAE. 16:20 — Overnight M. Petrov January 31, 8:15 — Exit from bivouac E. Lobanev 13:00 — Reach the ridge 14:40 — Summit 17:00 — descent to Khikhinka 18:00 — descent to Ala-Archa

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge 3. Boks peak via the edge of the northern wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, third ascent 5. Height difference 600 m, length 850 m 6. Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 90 m sections with 5B category of difficulty — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part 74° 7. Pitons left on the route — 0

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

Routes to the peak Izmaylovskiy

4400 m

3. Along the S.E. ridge 2A cat. dif. V. Vozopotov, 82

1. Along the W. ridge from the Severo-Izyumskiy to the Crown 3B cat. dif. V. Glukhov, 67 Snow-ice slope 40° 60 m
2. Along the center of the n.w. wall 3B cat. dif. V. Rodikov, 33 Snow-ice slope 45° 50 m

320 m 45–50°

85 m 45–50°

Ascent Plan

The ascent of Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south along the ridge between the Ozarovsky and Pastukhov glaciers was conducted as part of the overall plan of the LOS DSO "TRUD" team, which participated in the 1962 USSR championship in the traverse class (Alamedin Wall). The ascent to Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan (4840 m) via the specified route was done for the first time, and a first ascent was made to the West Kyrgyzstan peak (4820 m). According to the plan for reconnaissance and training ascents, two groups:

• Slyozin Yu.B. — Master of Sports
• Shevchenko Yu.S. — 1st category as well as
• Ivanova T.G. — 1st category
• Yagotints V.D. — 2nd category were to reach the Ozarovsky South glacier cirque, inspect part of the Alamedin Wall traverse, and ascend Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south. Depending on the complexity and length of the route, as well as the participants' well-being, the ascent was to be made either separately with a corresponding interval or simultaneously by the entire foursome under Slyozin's leadership.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant