Traverse of Peak Karniz (2B category)

From the camp located in the middle of a flat gravel area of the upper modern erosion base of the Researchers and Chon-Turasu glaciers (altimeter reading 3500 m), we head towards the sheer wall of Peak Skala, to the place where these glaciers almost connect with each other. On the site, we easily jump over several small streams (they may not be there early in the morning and at low temperatures) and begin to ascend along the last stream before the moraines - this stream flows in the right direction for a long time. On both sides remain:

• chaotic accumulations of moraines (up to 30-40 m high);
• closed ponds of various shapes, sizes, and colors;
• huge blocks of dead ice, exposing their icy sides from under the moraines. In some places, the dead ice is exposed, and the ascent on it is inconvenient and often impossible: crampons slide along with the fine gravel, and cutting steps is difficult - the ice axe hits the pebbles, and large stones slide down from above. During the reconnaissance, a small mudflow occurred 15 m behind us; the diameter of the stones in the stream reached 1 m. To the right remains a 50-meter tongue of the Chon-Turasu glacier. We follow the stream until it disappears into the stones, then turn right, ascend to the ridge, and move along it for about 200 m. Then we go around the glacial lake on the left (it appears to be enclosed between the glacier tongue and the dead ice). The lake is surrounded by ice on all sides, and falling into it would make it impossible to get out without outside help. There are many such lakes near the tongue.

From the base camp at the foot of v. Aosol, ascend along the trail along the stream in the direction of the Western Tsiruk, then - overcoming moraine ridges - exit to the glacier. On the glacier, head towards v. Sadko, bypassing the moraines on the left, but not approaching the slopes of v.v. Aelita and Berendey - rockfalls are possible from there. Approach the base of the ice-rock couloir leading to the saddle to the left of v. Sadko (2 hours 30 minutes). From here, it is visible that the wall of v. Sadko is intersected in its lower part by two new couloirs, going from the main ice-rock couloir from left to right upwards. The couloirs are bounded by rocky, destroyed large ridges, leading to the main ridge of v. Sadko to the right of the summit. 0–I. Ascend up the main couloir (dirty ice with a high content of rubble, in the lower part of the couloir - 5–10 m of thawed, mobile layer of dirty rubble). Rockfalls! Ascent up the couloir under the cover of the 1st ridge, bypass it on the left, ascend to the ridge. Here you should look around. I–2. Along the rocky, destroyed ridge to the main ridge (movement is mostly simultaneous, in some places - alternating with belay through ledges). 2–3. Along the main ridge to the summit of Sadko (total from the foot - 2 hours). Route length - 25 km. Options:

• Ascent via the 2nd ridge - apparently equivalent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock. 2. Region: Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tashtambektor gorge. 3. Peak, its height, route: Central Sherkhan, 4220 m, via the Eastern ridge. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B. 5. Characteristics: height difference: 400 m, average steepness: 40°, length of 5B sections: none. 6. Pitons hammered:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

Passport

First ascent to the summit peak 4804 (peak LTI) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B (tentative)

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay
3. Summit, height, ascent route — peak 4804 via NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 260 m, average slope — 33°
6. Pitons driven: for belay — 17 Rock — 17 Ice —

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

(4200 Peak via Western Wall edge, category 5A difficulty (tentative))

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alay mountain range.
3. Peak 4200, Western wall edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A (third ascent).
5. Route description Elevation gain: 600 m; length of sections 5–6 — 250 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 75 for creating artificial holds — 2.

Description of the First Ascent of Peak "4020" (Peak A. Zyuzin)

1. Historical Background

Alexander Semenovich Zyuzin (1903–1970), an outstanding Soviet mountaineer, Honored Master of Sports, and one of the founders of mountaineering in Ukraine. He was a mountaineering instructor since 1934, organizer of the first student mountaineering expedition to Elbrus in 1936, founder of the "Stal" alpine camp in the Adyrsu gorge on the Central Caucasus, and head of the training department of the All-Union School of Mountaineering Instructors, Ukrainian School of Instructors, and others. Since 1937, he was the creator and first chairman of the Dnepropetrovsk regional section (federation) of mountaineering, a member of the presidiums of the All-Union and Ukrainian sections (federations) of mountaineering. In 1937, he was awarded the title of Master of Sports in mountaineering, and in 1947, he was awarded the honorary title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. A.M. Zyuzin, a scientist-geodesist, is credited with the first research and mapping of many mountainous regions of the Central Caucasus, including Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, Sugan, and Tepli. In these regions, he made numerous first ascents and first passages between 1937 and 1947. In particular, in the Adyrsu-Tyutyusu region, he first conquered the peaks of Orubashi, Kenchat, Kayarta, and others, and passed new routes on Adyrsu-bashi and others. In the Sullukol gorge region, A.M. Zyuzin made the first ascents and gave names to Peak Stal (3855 m) and Termen-bashi (3950 m). To commemorate the centenary of A.M. Zyuzin's birth, the SOAB "Ullutau" together with the mountaineering expedition of the Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation decided to organize the first ascent to the peak "4020 m" in the Sullukol gorge, located between the peaks Stal and Termen, discovered by A.M. Zyuzin, and propose to name this peak "Peak Zyuzin".

2. Geographical Characteristics