68. Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:

• descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
• traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
• cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
• ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
• turn left;

51. Nakra via Right Counter-fors of the North Face (A. Zamora's route, cat.4B diff.). The path from "Baksan" alp-camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the right-bank moraine of the Severniy Donguzrun glacier is described in route 50. From the moraine:

• cross the Severniy Donguzrun glacier
• go through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of Nakra's North Face It is possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right via the rocks of the North counter-fors of the Northwest ridge and above it traverse through a snowy couloir (belay, falling rocks, ice falls!) to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of the North Face. Up the occasionally snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors with several short walls and small gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right:
• ascent (pitons belay!) to a site in the middle of the counter-fors At the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

REPORT

on the ascent to peak 3930 (Paton Peak) in the Caucasus, made by participants of the Ukrainian scientific sports expedition

1. Organization Ukrainian Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation
2. Location Russia, Caucasus, Elbrus region
3. Period from August 4 to August 23, 2004
4. Leader: Simonenko V.K., senior coach: Gorbenko M.M.

2.4.147 Ascent Report

I. Description of the Traverse of Sakashil-Bashi Massif West — East

The first ascent of the route was made on February 22, 1969, by a group consisting of:

• Skobenko S.A. (leader)
• Vasyukovich L.A.
• Karlov A.I. With the presence of an auxiliary group (observers) of 3 people. Day 1. On February 21, the 2/1 group approached through the Khunaly-Chat gorge (the left, uppermost tributary of Sakashil-Su). The approach path to the old terminal moraine of the Khunaly glacier (Western Sakashil) is the same as for the peaks "Pik XXV-letiya kombinata", A. Baysultanov, and B. Orlov. After reaching the old terminal moraine, one must ascend left-upwards and, having reached the 1st moraine terrace, traverse left into the "pocket" between the right-bank moraine and the rocky slope of the spur separating the Khunaly-Chat and Sakashil gorges. Ascending up the "pocket", we reach the moraine ridge approximately 50 m above the glacier tongue. Two options are then possible:
• Reach the glacier and continue moving along it.

6. Traverse of the Suaryk massif from east to west (P. Yakuts route, cat. 4A). The path from the village of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac on the platforms in the upper reaches of Zugully is described in route 4. From the platforms (a group of 4–8 people) ascent along grassy slopes to the right of the scree descending from the moraine rampart (rockfall along the scree!), and at the top exit to the moraine rampart. Further up along gentle snow-covered scree and simple rocks to a narrow (3–5 m wide) couloir-chimney descending from the col between the Eastern Gendarme and the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Suaryk East summit. From the platforms 2.5–3 hours. From the scree straight up along the 120-meter couloir-chimney (rockfall, "live" stones, piton belays!). The couloir gradually narrows,

Route Description

to the summit of "Bezыmannaya" via the southern ridge from the southwest or Gumači pass, category 2A The summit "Bezыmannaya" is located in the upper Adyl-Su valley between the summits Gumači and Chetchat. The ridges of Bezыmannaya consist of simple destroyed rocks alternating with scree and individual snow-ice sections. The described route (traverse) from southwest to northwest was completed on August 6, 1974, by a training and sports group of the All-Union School of Instructors of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions in the following composition:

• I. Naydovich B.V. — leader.
• 2. Starikov G.A.
• 3. Sinelshchikov G.A. The route is evaluated by the group as category 2A. From the "Elbrus" base camp, the path lies along the road to the "Jantugan" base camp, then along the trail on the left bank of the Adyl-Su River to a stone bridge, across which you should cross to its right bank. Further along the trail — to the "Green Hotel" clearing. From the "Elbrus" base camp — 3.5 hours. From the "Green Hotel", go up along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of the Jan-Kuat glacier to the sites at its end ( bivouac "Sneznyy" or "Snowy"). There are two options for reaching the southern ridge of Bezыmannaya.

132. Ullukara via North Counterforce and East Ridge (Category IV A route). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp to the foot of the North Counterforce of Ullukara summit with the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of Bashkara glacier is described in route 136. From the glacier, along a steep snowy slope, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop of the North Counterforce from the left side, reach under the rocky wall. Bypass the wall from the right with an exit to a couloir and ascend 80–100 m (belay!) via non-steep, partially snow-covered easy to moderately difficult rocks of the couloir to a ridge platform. 3–4 hours from the glacier. Then, along heavily destroyed ridge rocks or its right side, ascend to a platform below an ice-snow slope. 3–4 hours from the first counterforce

The summit of MALAА Ј­ŽBA is located in the main Caucasian ridge on the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. To the northeast of M. Ј­žba is the summit of Chatyn-Tau, to the southwest — Severnyaya and Yuzhnaya Ј­žba, to the north — Shchurovsky peak. The summit of M. Ј­žba rises above the Ј­žbinskoye plateau by 150 meters. The only ridge descending from the summit goes in the direction of the Chalaat pass; in the three other directions, the slopes of the summit break off with steep walls. The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by a group consisting of Sidorenko and Slobodskaya via the right couloir. The ascent to the summit is made from the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. The ascent from the plateau to the summit and descent back to the plateau takes 3–4.5 hours.

REPORT

ON CROSSING THE TRAVERSE SOUTH USHBA – NORTH USHBA 6A category of complexity BY THE TEAM OF NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Ascent Passport

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;