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Route Description: ЮЗ склону и З гребню
Report on the first ascent by a group from the Magnitogorsk alpine club to the peak 4292 m via the south-west slope and west ridge in the Zeravshan range of the Pamir-Alay.
Report
on the first ascent of the group from the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club to the summit 4292 m (“Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”) via the southwest slope and west ridge Leader of the first ascent in 2015: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54 Coach: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54
Ascent Passport
- Region: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
- Summit: 4292 m (Proposed name “Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”). Location: (39°13′30.3″ N 68°45′54.6″ E).
- Route: via the southwest slope and west ridge.
- Category: 3A, first ascent.
Route Description: С ребру Ю гребня
Ascent to Peak Skalisty (5621 m) via the north edge from the Ats-Terek glacier, route description and key details of the hike.
Peak Skalisty — Main Summit (5621 m) via the northern ridge from the Ats-Terek glacier — 35 km.
August 13, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Bernard Uchmański, Krzysztof Cieleńsky, Bogdan Jankowski From a bivouac on the Votryanaya saddle. Description of the route's character up to the saddle:
- Within "Ascent in the Skalisty Peak massif," the path goes via easy climbing, местами по льду — по прямой стороне гребня (400 m), крутизной до 45°.
- Then an ascent onto a complex ridge, along which another 100 m to its highest point.
- Descent down steep snow (20 m) onto a rocky saddle.
- The further path proceeds along a purely rocky ridge.
Route Description: столбу
Description of the passage of the route 6A category of difficulty along the wall of the Admiralteets peak in the Aksu gorge by a team led by Alexander Shavrovich in August 1990.
PASSPORT
- Technical category
- Ak-su gorge
- Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
- Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
- Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?
Route Description: С В стене
Ascent to the summit of Vost. A. Blok (5150 m) via the northwest wall and north ridge, category III, completed by a team from the Irkutsk mountaineering club in 1988.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley.
- Mt. East A. Blok (5150 m), via northwestern wall and northern ridge.
- Category 5B, third ascent.
- Elevation gain 830 m. Average length 1008 m. Average slope 65°. Average wall slope 75°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories 315 m.
- Pitons used: rock: 86/20 bolted: –
Route Description: кф. 3 стены
Route guide to Peak Asan (4230 m) via the Northwest Wall, category 5B difficulty, detailing the technical and tactical actions of the team.
Ascent Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley.
- Peak Asan (4230 m), via the 3rd buttress of the NW wall, Alperin's route.
- Category 5B difficulty.
- Height difference 850 m, length 950 m, length of climbing sections IV–V (4b–5a) cat. diff. – 230 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. diff. – 455 m, length of climbing sections VII (6a+/6b) cat. diff. – 235 m, additionally – aid climbing A1 – 20 m, A2 – 90 m.
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of Category 6B route via the center of the Southwest wall of the 1000 лет Крещения Руси peak (Kyrkchilta, 4507 m) in the Pamir-Alay.
Climbing Report on the First Ascent
As part of the Russian Climbing Championship by Correspondence. High-Altitude Technical Class
Peak 1000 let Kreshcheniya Rusii (Kyrkchilta) (4507 m) via the center of the Southwest wall. Route category 6B (proposed), first ascent. 5. Pamiro-Alay (5.4.3). Karavshin valley Team Leader: A.A. Klepikov (Master of Sports) Team Members: S.A. Lazarev (1st sports category), I.V. Likhonosov (1st sports category)
Ascent Passport
1.5. Pamiro-Alay. Karavshin valley 5.4.3. 2. Peak 1000 let Kreshcheniya Rusii (Kyrkchilta) (4507 m), center of the Southwest wall. 3. Proposed category 6B – first passage.
Route Description: центру З стены
Report on the ascent made by a team from Krasnoyarsk to the peak Kyrkchilta via the Davy route of 6B category of complexity.
Russian Championship in Alpinism
high-altitude and technical category 2018 year
Report
on the ascent to peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, via the center of the SW wall, 6B category of difficulty, Dave route by the team from Krasnoyarsk For the period 23.07.2018–25.07.2018
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
First ascent of the "4810 m" peak via the center of the northwest wall in the Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, with a detailed description of the route and the team's tactical actions.
PASSPORT
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karasu gorge (tributary of Karavshin river)
- Peak "4810 m" via the center of the northwest wall
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Height difference 1210 m, length 1546 m Length of sections with 5B-6B category of difficulty is 1140 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 78° (3600-4660). Sections of 6th category of difficulty: 90° (3600-3860, 4350-4460), 85° (4150-4210), 80° (4000-4120, 4530-4560), 70° (3900-3980)
- Pitons hammered:
Rock pitons Bolt pitons Chocks Holes for sky hooks
Route Description: зеркалу 3 стены
Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Odessa via the 6B category of difficulty route on the "mirror" of the West Face.
Russian Mountaineering Championship
High-altitude technical class
Report
On the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the "Mirror" of the West Face, Rusyaev's route, variant, 6B category of difficulty. Coaches: Odintsov Alexander Nikolaevich, Smirnov Victor Valerievich, Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna St. Petersburg, 2019. Ascent passport
- Region 7.5.2 Karavshin Valley
- Odessa, 4810 m, via the "Mirror" of the West Face
- 6B category of difficulty
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 1160 m, route length: 1510 m, length of sections with V category of difficulty: 245 m; length of sections with VI category of difficulty: 835 m; distance covered using Intermediate Technical Obstacles (ITO): 200 m.
Route Description: среднему гребню Ю склона
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the middle counterfort of the southern slope, category 3B difficulty, including passage details and technical information.
Ascent Certificate
- Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
- Kzyl-Tash peak 3486 m, via the middle ridge of the Southern slope.
- Proposed category: 3A.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference 900 m, length 1400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
- Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15 pieces.
- Team's travel time 8 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports