Peak Skalisty — Main Summit (5621 m) via the northern ridge from the Ats-Terek glacier — 35 km.

August 13, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Bernard Uchmański, Krzysztof Cieleńsky, Bogdan Jankowski

From a bivouac on the Votryanaya saddle.

Description of the route's character up to the saddle:

• Within "Ascent in the Skalisty Peak massif," the path goes via easy climbing, местами по льду — по пря­мой сто­ро­не гре­бня (400 m), кру­ти­зной до 45°.
• Then an ascent onto a complex ridge, along which another 100 m to its highest point.
• Descent down steep snow (20 m) onto a rocky saddle.
• The further path proceeds along a purely rocky ridge.

The first ascent goes via a crevice leading left upwards. Further — via a chimney 15 m high to the right of the ridge. From the chimney, along an inclined slab to the right of the ridge, ascend upwards onto the ridge (40 m). Along the uneven ridge, movement between large rocks leads to the next ascent. Via ledges on the right side of the ridge (40 m) — exit under the second chimney, through which — exit onto the ridge. The length of the chimney is 15 m. From there, along an un трудному горизон­таль­ному гре­бню to the summit — 100 m.

Time taken — 3 hours.

Descent via the ascent route: The first ascenders, for the sake of completeness of sensations, preferred a descent 300 m down a sheer, steep wall — onto the saddle between the main and South summits. Here is located the third tent. The descent took 4 hours.

From the saddle, named Ozernaya, descent along a steep (45°) snowy slope onto a snowy plateau under the Skalisty massif. Further descent via the ascent route onto the Kmechty glacier.

Time taken on the 4th day — 7 hours.