6. Tomsk student camp

Pankbaba Bazbora

Climbing Passport

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Himalayas.
3. Dhaulagiri I — 8167 m, via the Northeast Ridge.
4. Proposed category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 3400 m (by altimeter); length — 7100 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2500 m; Average steepness:
   • main part of the route — 35°
   • entire route — 30°.

QUESTIONNAIRE about the work of the expedition of the State Sports Committee of the Kazakh SSR to the Dhaulagiri summit

1. Name of the summit, its height, route Dhaulagiri, 8167 m, West wall (indicate – first ascent, variation, which one on the route) difficulty category – 6B
2. Dates Departure from Moscow on March 8, 1991; arrival in Moscow on June 2, 1991. Date of the base camp establishment: April 2, 1991.

Ascent Passport

1. Category — High-altitude technical
2. Himalayas, Barun river gorge
3. Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Himalayas, Central Tibet, East Rongbuk Glacier
3. Mt. Everest via the Northeast Ridge
4. Category 6B difficulty
5. Elevation gain – 3698 m
6. Pitons used | Rock | Ice | Snow | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 35 | 40 | 40 |

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

• length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.

6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Western Himalayas, Diamir gorge
3. Nanga Parbat peak — 8125 m via Diamir Wall (Kinshofer route)
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain: from glacier — 3800 m, length — 4760 m. Length of 6A category sections — 120 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from camp at 5100 m to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5400 to 6200 m) — 60°.
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 37.

Ascent Passport

1. Argentina, Andes, Cordón del Plata massif, classifier section 11.5
2. Plata, 6050 m, via the northwest slope.
3. Proposed category: 2A.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1850 m. Route length: 5500 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 0, category VI difficulty: 0. Average slope: 37° for the main part of the route, 20° for the entire route.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
7. Team's travel time: 6.5 hours, 1 day.

Arfen Cherburun — 3

Route scheme "Oba-Na!" cat. VI, m. Aya, "Arfen" peak (235.2 m) Streltsov S., Zakutin A. 13–18.07.2001.

Tactical tips for wall passage.

I. Basing in the mouth of the Kazán-Dere tract allows:

• to carry out landing from small vessels and evacuation in sea roughness up to 3 points from all directions except "South-West", "West";
• to fully recover strength, since here, unlike "Lost World", there is no such abundance of noisy neighbors;
• to save money on renting a yawl;