PASSPORT

1. Winter class.
2. Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai valley.
3. p. S. Korea 4740 via the gully left of the "triangle" from the S side. 4.55 cat. of difficulty, 2nd ascent of Barber's route.
4. Height difference — 740 m, length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 560 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4000–4740 m). Of which:

• 6 cat. of difficulty — 90° (3342–3402 m).

6. Number of pitons: Ice screws — 69 pcs. Climbing hours — 11.5 hours and days — 1 day.
7. No overnight stays.

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

по пол­кам или кру­тым глад­ким пли­там does not need translation as the original text is in Russian. Here is the translation: along shelves or steep smooth plates. Careful belaying with pitons. Then through (a sleeping window) we exit onto a 5-meter rocky ridge, which we traversed with a rope. Further on, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty. There are two 7–8 meter walls, which are taken head-on — 3 rock pitons. Through simple rocks, we exit onto the summit. Control point. We found a note from a group of climbers from the Kyrgyz State University, who made an ascent to Peak I May in 1957 via the Southwest Ridge, route category 1B. The ascent from the col to the summit took 7 hours.

R2 60 m 75° IV
R1 40 m 2A
R0 150 m 2A + +

Report

On the ascent of Peak Box via the center of the eastern wall by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" alpine club on July 31, 2023

I. Climbing Report Details

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16

Passport.

1. Class: technical.
2. Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too.
3. p. Zinaida (5350 m) via NW ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B, combined.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow-ice part is 30 degrees.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 2, ice – 0.
7. Travel hours: 4 hours.
8. Overnight stays: none.
9. Leader: Akhmatov F.A., CMS.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport