PASSPORT

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak named after S. Darius and S. Girėnas (5998.3 m) via the northern ridge
4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, combined, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1198 m, length — 2310 m Length of sections 6 — 28 m, 4–5 — 400 m. Average steepness of main sections 70°.
6. Pitons driven | rock | placements | ice | | :--: | :-------: | :---: |

1984 Lithuanian Sports Committee Climbing Gathering

Report

on the first ascent to the peak 6004 m "Lituanica" via the northern ridge from Chondzhiraf glacier by the "Polytechnika" team from Kaunas 400, 650, 21 cu, 22 mg, 10 hours. Congratulations to the winners! TEAM LEADER: Bronius Varsackis. TEAM COACH: Algis Gudyalis. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zemaite St., 6, phone 63-53-53 Bronius Varsackis — 233005, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kapsu St., 101-1, phone 22-57-91 Algis Gudyalis — 233021, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kaniu St., 4-17, phone 26-45-91, work phone 75-35-11

Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. v. Winnie-the-Pooh (peak 5250 m) via the center of the western wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 130 m average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock (including chocks) — 62

I. Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Vychuk-Dara valley.
3. Peak — "5200" peak via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1360 m;
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 666 m; including 6th category — 82 m;

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

PAMIR. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Peak: Korolyov S.P. 6236 m, from the Sredniy Glacier along the Western ridge, combined. Description of the first ascent made on August 14, 1968 by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the ZENIT Voluntary Sports Society (DSS). Leader: A. Vakhmenin. The description was compiled by A. Vakhmenin Chelyabinsk Regional Federation of Alpinism. — 1968. CENTRAL PAMIR. Scheme of the ridges of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier.

I. Introduction

Peak 6236 m is located in the northern part of the ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier (see map-diagram). The ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier separates the Fedchenko Glacier and the Vitkovsky Glacier, starts approximately opposite the Abdukagor-1 pass, and initially stretches east, and after the peak 6236 m — south. The ridge contains, starting from the northern part:

• peak 5360 m,

The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of:

1. A. V. Abramov
2. G. P. Derovoy
3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasiliev via route 4A cat. diff. in 1967) Release officer — V. G. Tarkhanov — Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor

Central Pamir

Ranges of the Fedchenko Glacier headwaters.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport