1. Climbing class - rock.
2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
3. Object of ascent - p. "3900" (v. Domashnaya) along the southwestern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty - 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 660 m, length - 800 m, average steepness - 56°, length of sections 5 category of difficulty - 140 m, length of sections 4 category of difficulty - 155 m, length of sections 1 category of difficulty - 340 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 42, chocks 6.
7. Travel hours - 9.

FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF BSSR № 4.2.33, 579, 3, 112.87

2012.37

Report

on the ascent to Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-West ridge. Cat. diff. - 4B. Leader - Alexander Mashkanov. Home address: 220134, Minsk, Yakubovsky st., 22, building 3, apt. 17. Team coach - Stanislav Shabunya. Home address: 220037, Minsk, 2nd Bagration lane, 19, apt. 48.

• base camp - five approaches - five returns

ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge
3. Pik Petrogradets (5164 m), via the center of the southeast wall through the spall.
4. Assumed — 6A cat. tr. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 960 m, length — 1160 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tr. — 640 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 74° (4200–5120 m), including 6 cat. tr.:
   • 83° (4560–4600 m)
   • (4700–4940 m)
   • (5020–5060 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range
3. Peak (its height, route) — T. Sadykov Peak 4432 m via N.E. ridge
4. Expected category — 2B (rocky terrain)
5. Route characteristics Height difference 600 m, total route length 1100 m, average slope 35°
6. Number of travel hours — 5 hours
7. Number of protection pitons — 2
8. Number of overnight stays — none

PHOTO PANORAMA OF THE AREA. Taken on July 5, 1983 (II ch.); lens "Jupiter-37A", focus 135 mm; distance about 7 km, shooting point F4, height 4200 m.

Tactical Actions of the Team

July 18 Snow-ice couloir. No spontaneous rockfalls were observed, and there were no traces of stones under the couloir. Nevertheless, the group started the route in the dark to overcome the lower part of the couloir on firm snow and leave the couloir before the sun illuminated the northern slope of the mountain. Bashkirov and Khankevich worked ahead. The other participants moved along the rope, using the "chest-leg" method on many sections. They reached the shoulder by 15:00 - an excellent place for camping. July 19 Wall processing. To increase the pace of passage, two teams worked on the wall:

• In the first half of the day - Plotkin-Mikhaylov
• In the second half of the day - Bashkirov-Raboчих The descending team straightened the rope, removing unnecessary pitons, and then rested properly on the shoulder in a tent. July 20 Continuation of processing. The organization of work remained the same:
• First team - Khankevich-Mikhaylov

PASSPORT

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak "4690" (50th anniversary of the Moscow Spartak), via the North slope. 4. Assumed 4B category of difficulty (second ascent). 5. Height difference — 700 m. Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 330 m. Average steepness: route — 40°, ridge part — 15°,

Passport

Ascent to the summit 4786 m

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge
3. Summit 4786 m via the northern counterfort of the Eastern ridge.
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, 3rd ascent.
5. Height difference 1000 m.
6. Total route length 1680 m. The route is combined.
7. Wall section length 600 m.
8. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 360 m.

Passport

1. Rock climbing.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak Asan (4230 m) from the east.
4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 630 m, wall section – 450 m. Length of wall section – 555 m. Average steepness of wall section – 69°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |