Sokol - 52

Muchacha * 2B cat. diff.[№2]

(A. Kuzmitsky ­ — E. Khvorost, November 2005) R0­–R1: 50 m, 5B. The start coincides with the right double, then left to the inner corner with a crack, belay is easily organized on the entire rope, be careful when passing the oblique crack (15 m) ­ — destroyed edge. Station on the upper juniper bush on a comfortable ledge + own elements. R1­–­R2: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up, along a vaguely expressed crack, then along the slab up to the right on a bush (pa­ral­le­lo­gram to the double on the right), 3­–­4 ­m before the bush — bolted piton, from it up 8­–­9 ­m to the station under an oblique hanging block. Station on bolted piton + small nuts. R2­–­R3: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up the slab to a tree, and then a beautiful long

So­kol-51

Chico * 3А complexity cat.[№4]

(S. Na­dto­chiy — E. Gay­nu­lov, November 2005) R0–R1: 50 m, 5c+. Belay is organized easily:

• large friends facilitate belay organization,
• don’t forget to lengthen quick draws at the turn. Belay station is on a convenient ledge on a big tree. R1–R2: 20 m, 4b+. Belaying is still necessary. Station coincides with Muchacha’s R1 station R2–R3: 50–55 m, 6a. Two thirds of the rope — there is protection, then 9–10 meters

Sokol - 3

Knife edge, 3B grade.

(S. Nadtochiy — O. Leviash — V. Chumachenko, 2005)

R0–R1: 50 m, 5a. Protection on trees. Belay station on a large ledge on a tree. R1–R2: 55 m, 5c+. Protection is conditional, points won't withstand a light jerk. Small nuts, possibly pitons. List:

• Belay station on a ledge
• To the left of a "dead" sapling. R2–R3: 55 m, 5c+. In the beginning of the pitch, 8–10 meters of climbing is done without

Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Vecnaya molodost" Route, 3B

The "Vecnaya molodost" route is located in the western sector of Sokol Mt., next to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. A good, logical 3-pitch route that leads to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route in its upper part. Protection is natural (nuts, friends, pitons); there is little old gear. Belay stations are on trees, on key ropes on their own protection points + pitons (bolts). The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. Start 30 meters to the right, from the sign. It's convenient to set up a belay station on a large pine tree.

So­kol — 49

I want 36 cat. sl.[№7]

(A. Kuz­mit­sky — S. Na­dto­chiy, November 2005) R0–R1: 35 m, 5Б+. Climb­ing in the crack be­tween the wall and an at­tached block, then up­ward through the left-hand crack to a ledge in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner; belay is self-pro­vided. Sta­tion in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 6А. Care­ful climb­ing up­ward through the crack. Then exit onto a ledge and move right up­ward along it, be­neath the base of a char­ac­ter­is­tic gully. Sta­tion on a tree. R2­–­R3: 35­–­40 m, 5c. Straight up­ward fol­low­ing the wa­ter­fall line, through a small jun­iper, care­ful slab climb­ing “on de­ter­mi­na­tion”; on the crux — a bol­lard. A few me­ters above, a sta­tion on a bol­lard + pro­tec­tion gear. R3­–­R4: 45­–­50 m, 5c. Pro­tec­tion is avail­able at times (dur­ing the first 15­–­18 m pro­tec­tion is

So­kol — 4

Along the val­le­ys and along the uplands, cat. 4B diff.

R0–R1: 35–40 m, 5b+. Pro­tec­tion is self-pro­vid­ed, can be or­ga­nized eas­i­ly, but only some­times. Sta­tion on a small tree on a shelf. R1–R2: 40 m, cat. 6A diff. Pro­tec­tion is self-pro­vid­ed, or­ga­niz­ing it is quite prob­lem­at­ic: pitons + nuts. At the end of the rope, there are a cou­ple of old piton. Un­com­fort­able sta­tion in the be­gin­ning of a de­te­ri­o­rat­ed crack on a bad piton and on own gear. R2–R3: 35 m, cat. 6A diff. Pro­tec­tion:

Sokol — 5

Rope 50–60 m, 14 quickdraws, nuts, cams, slings.

General Impression:

Interesting route, not cluttered with ironmongery. The route has something in common with the "Ear" on Foros, although the key rope section here is more challenging.

Sokol. The route on the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A (A. Brynza — Kobylsky (Dnepropetrovsk)).

A rather interesting route if you climb from the road without shortening the ropes on the shelf. By taking the "shortcut," the route is not sufficiently loaded with difficulties for 4A; it's more like a heavy 3B — due to its length. Sokol. On the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: The first rope coincides with the "Between the Breasts" route. The station coincides.
• R1–R2: 45 m, 5c, insurance is organized easily:
• pitons

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station. Sokol. Routes:

• Vspomnit vse
• Bolshaya progulka
• Ne hAchu

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings