So­kol — 49

I want 36 cat. sl.[№7]

(A. Kuz­mit­sky — S. Na­dto­chiy, November 2005)

R0–R1: 35 m, 5Б+. Climb­ing in the crack be­tween the wall and an at­tached block, then up­ward through the left-hand crack to a ledge in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner; belay is self-pro­vided. Sta­tion in­side the in­ter­nal cor­ner.

R1–R2: 35–40 m, 6А. Care­ful climb­ing up­ward through the crack. Then exit onto a ledge and move right up­ward along it, be­neath the base of a char­ac­ter­is­tic gully. Sta­tion on a tree.

R2­–­R3: 35­–­40 m, 5c. Straight up­ward fol­low­ing the wa­ter­fall line, through a small jun­iper, care­ful slab climb­ing “on de­ter­mi­na­tion”; on the crux — a bol­lard. A few me­ters above, a sta­tion on a bol­lard + pro­tec­tion gear.

R3­–­R4: 45­–­50 m, 5c. Pro­tec­tion is avail­able at times (dur­ing the first 15­–­18 m pro­tec­tion is prac­ti­cally ab­sent); af­ter the sec­ond bol­lard (27 m) — move right into a crack. Sta­tion in the crack on a bol­lard and pro­tec­tion gear.

R4­–­R5: 25 m, 4c+. Sta­tion on the pla­teau.

Rec­om­mended equip­ment:

Rope 50–55 m, stan­dard set of nuts and cams, 12–14 quick­draws, 2–3 large and 2 me­dium slings.

Gen­eral im­pres­sion:

A beau­ti­ful and log­i­cal route with good slab climb­ing. Lots of fric­tion climb­ing. Time taken by an av­er­age team is 2–2.5 hours. In wet weath­er (rain, fog) the sec­ond and third ropes are dif­fi­cult to pass.