Sokol-51
Chico * 3А complexity cat.[№4]
(S. Nadtochiy — E. Gaynulov, November 2005)
R0–R1: 50 m, 5c+. Belay is organized easily:
- large friends facilitate belay organization,
- don’t forget to lengthen quick draws at the turn. Belay station is on a convenient ledge on a big tree.
R1–R2: 20 m, 4b+. Belaying is still necessary. Station coincides with Muchacha’s R1 station
R2–R3: 50–55 m, 6a. Two thirds of the rope — there is protection, then 9–10 meters of traverse with an ascent to the left with problematic protection. Station is on two bolts.
R3–R4: 55 m, 6A. Protection is organized easily since the line of ascent goes along a crack. In the upper part of the crack there is a loose block, one meter by one meter — don’t drop it on your partner, he won’t like it. Then exit to Muchacha’s line.
Recommended equipment:
Rope 55–60 m, standard set of cams and nuts, hammer, 35 pitons, 4–5 slings.
Overall Impression:
It’s hard to tell the category of the route since it is too short. The first rope length is an ordinary crux for 3rd category of difficulty, the second is short and easy, but the end of the third one may excite you. It’s comforting that a fall happens with a very low fall factor and it’s a pendulum fall. The fourth rope length is very pleasant for climbing.
Footnotes
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- Chico — means “little boy” in Spanish.