Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Vecnaya molodost" Route, 3B

The "Vecnaya molodost" route is located in the western sector of Sokol Mt., next to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. A good, logical 3-pitch route that leads to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route in its upper part. Protection is natural (nuts, friends, pitons); there is little old gear. Belay stations are on trees, on key ropes on their own protection points + pitons (bolts).

The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. Start 30 meters to the right, from the sign. It's convenient to set up a belay station on a large pine tree.

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost" 3B, route scheme

R0–R1, 45 m IV. You can start directly from the sign — up the inner corner (a small overhang at the bottom), to a large pine tree.

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost", 3B, start of R0–R1 section (right variant). Or you can start to the left along the wall, exiting to the right into the same inner corner.

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost", 3B, start of R0–R1 section (left variant). From the pine tree, go up the crack, where it ends — to the right into the inner corner (be careful, loose rocks) and up it. Belay station on a juniper.

R1–R2, 30 m III. From the belay station, go up to the left along the inner corner, then along the crack, moderate difficulty climbing. Belay station on a tree.

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost", 3B, start of R1–R2, R2–R3 sections, 30 m IV. Go up to the left, through a system of cracks, belay station before the start of a difficult section. There is a piton, but it needs to be reinforced with your own protection points. You can set up a belay station on your own points a bit higher, under a small overhang.

Belay station R3 (under the overhang) and key section above R3–R4, 25 m V. From the belay station, go up to the right, under the overhang, which is bypassed to the right. Then, along a slab with rock formations, up and to the left, in the direction of an inclined inner corner that limits the overhang on the left.

Protection options:

• Friends
• Anchors
• Pitons

It's not always possible to set up protection; there is a piton on the slab to the left. Belay station in the corner, behind a small overhang: bolt + your own protection (large friends, hexes).

Slab on R3–R4 section

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost", 3B, key section R4–R4*, 30 m (5 m V+; 25 m III).

Go up to the left of the corner, along the slab, to approach the wall with a crack (to the right of the route). Along the crack, 4–5 meters of difficult climbing, then along moderate difficulty rocks, to the right and up, through a leaning block, exit onto the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. Belay station on a bolt and a small juniper.

Upper part:

• You can go to the left and also exit onto the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route, but a bit earlier.
• There is a good platform, belay station on 3 pitons.

The route continues along the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. R4*–R5 50 m II. Along a horizontal narrow ridge, then descend into a gap in the ridge. Belay station on a tree. Visibility and audibility between R4* and R5 are very poor. You can bypass by traversing along a ledge to the left of the ridge.

R5–R5* 20 m. Along a ledge to the right, to a tree. This and the next rope length can be combined.

R5*–R6 30 m III. Go up along an inner corner, then along a wall with rich relief onto a small ledge. Belay station on a large pine tree.

Exit to belay station R7. Then you can:

• Continue moving along the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route (another 2.5 rope lengths and exit on foot to the summit to the triangulation point),
• or go to the left into a gully.

Walk through the gully, and when exiting along slabs, it's better to have protection, then continue along simple terrain to the right, to the summit.

Sokol Mt., "Vecnaya molodost", 3B. Upper part of the route

Gully, bypass of the upper part of the route. Continuation along the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route: R6–R7, 40 m, III.

• From the belay station, go up to the right — onto the ridge
• Then along the ridge

Belay station on a pine tree.

R7–R8 45 m III+. Go up along a slab with good handholds, bolt at the key spot, then along the ridge. Belay station on a flattening, bolt.

R8–R9 100 m. Go up to the left, along ledges and simple rocks, to the summit.

Recommended gear:

• 50 m rope
• Full set of nuts and friends
• 12–14 quickdraws
• 3–4 large slings
• 3–4 small slings
• Hammer
• Anchors
• Pitons (desirable)

Author of the description: Leonid Smidovich (Kharkov) Source: https://alpinist.biz/archives/2978↗