ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).

Passport

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai. Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maashey gorge, left glacial couloir of the northern slope.
3. Proposed name — Pik Sporny (3362 m).
4. Presumably — 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 40°.
6. Ice screws were used on the route.
7. Team's walking hours — 9.
8. Nights stayed — none.
9. Team members:

PASSPORT

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Stazerov, 3rd category (3750 m)
4. 2B first ascent is proposed.
5. Descent from Bolshoy Aktru glacier is 760 m, length is 1600 m.
6. Ice screws — 5 pieces.
7. Travel hours from camp to camp — 10 hours.
8. Overnight stay was not organized, approach and overnight stay are possible (at "Goluboe ozero").

V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Kar­atash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
4. Nature of the route: ice.
5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:

• 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
• 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

V. UPI

3603 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on completing the ascent to v. UPI via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope "4A" (k)

Participants

Temerev I.M. Lizin I.S.

ASCENT DETAILS:

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley, 102
2. Peak UPI, via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope.

UPI Peak

3603 m

07451

Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k)

Participants:

Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu.

Ascent Passport

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley.
2. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.

Chaptynova peak via the direct line of the northern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Class: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Chaptynova peak, via the direct line of the northern slope, ice-snow route.
4. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 350 m; length – 650 m. Average steepness of the route – 25–30°.

Ascent

To Einstein Peak via the North-Eastern wall (approximately category 3A difficulty) Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Members

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Tolmachev V.V. 1st sports category
3. Kalachev V.V. Candidate Master of Sports
4. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description