V. Dzhantugan

via the 103 ridge, cat. III complexity. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (September 2, 1987) 5:00 — departure from "Zelyonaya gostinitsa" (Green Hotel). 8:00 — Dzhantuganskoye plateau. 9:00–12:00 — summit. The pass between

Ha­ka 3-0

307. Dolra East via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2B diff., fig. 32, 42). From the Southern “Becho” Shelter, go up the Dolra River. Cross the river and ascend steep grassy, and higher up scree (loose rocks) slopes to a small plateau at the foot of the ascent to the East Ridge of Dolra peak. Set up the initial bivouac at the plateau. From the Southern “Becho” Shelter 3–4 hours. The exit to the East Ridge is also possible from the Dolra Glacier (point 295). From the plateau, go up a snow-covered couloir on the left side to reach the East Ridge. Further, ascend 600–700 m up along the wide, heavily jagged and ruined easy rocky East Ridge with numerous gendarmes that are either overcome head-on or bypassed, to a small plateau below the Big Gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a 20-meter wall (cam). Further, along the heavily ruined, and in places snow-covered (cornices) East Ridge, ascend to the summit of Dolra East. From the initial bivouac: 5–7 hours. Fig. 42.

313. Dolra — Khevay (combined route, P. Kovaleva, 4A cat. sl., Fig. 32, 42). From the summit Dolra East (m. 307) along simple destroyed rocks of the ridge with three snow-ice bridges (cornices) ascend to the summit Dolra Main. From Main down steep destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with two rappels descent to the saddle. From the saddle along simple destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge ascend to the summit Dolra West. From the West down steep rocks of the Western ridge to the bridge. Bypass a small gendarme of the bridge on slabs to the left. Then along rocks of medium difficulty and snowy slopes on the left side of the ridge bypass on the right V and IV gendarmes of the "pyala" and behind them exit to the bridge. From the bridge along simple rocks of the ridge pass:

• III and II gendarmes of the "pyala"
• rappel under I gendarme Bypass the gendarme by traversing 25 m along steep rocks above medium difficulty to the right (rotten rocks) with exit to the site of the bridge under the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the summit Khevay First East.

4

The Lesser Donguz-Orun is located in the smooth Zakavkazsky ridge between Lecho to the east and Donguz-Orun to the west. The height of the peak is 1468 m. To the northwest lies the middle peak of Donguz-Orun. From the middle peak of Donguz-Orun, a ridge branches off, which turns west and, through a saddle, forms a Makra-Tau pyramid (or May Donguz-Orun - 1440 meters). The western ridge, Nakra-Tau, steeply descends to the Donguz-Orun pass. This is the eastern ridge that runs from the Donguz-Orun peak along the Songi valley to the Becho pass. The third ridge branches off from the middle peak of Donguz-Orun in a northeasterly direction to the Kogu-Tau-Veti peak. The northern wall of the peak is trapped by snow firn and drop-offs, feeding the left branch of the Isegi glacier. The western slope of the peak drops steeply to the Donguz-Orun glacier. On the wall, two cross-shaped narrow glaciers are clearly visible. At the peak, there is a huge firn field that feeds the Nakra, Kapp, and Dakra glaciers.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,

(Donguzorun Lesser Peaks via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 2A)

From the "Av" cafe to the bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend along the talus and simple broken rocks of the pinnacle slope of this peak, to the right of the counterfort, to its eastern shoulder. From the shoulder, move left and proceed along the wide talus ridge to a large snowpatch. Along the ridge (beware of cornices!) on the snowpatch, ascend to the talus, from which, via simple broken rocks and talus, reach the summit of Azau-Gitche-Chegetkar. (1 hour) From the summit, move west along the wide snow-covered simple rocky ridge, reaching the first rocky gendarme. Ascend the gendarme via the sharp steep rocky ridge, then descend 10 meters via rappel. Continue along the simple rocky ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via strongly broken rocks — the rocks are steep, requiring piton protection. After the gendarme, proceed along the simple rocks of the wide ridge to beneath the third gendarme — a slab-like formation. Bypass the gendarme on the left ("live" rocks, protection required). Further along the simple broken rocks of the wide ridge, reach beneath the tower of the Big Gendarme of the Eastern Ridge. From the ridge, ascend 5–7 meters up the wall of the gendarme, then traverse it along the steep rocks on the left side ("live" rocks, protection required), and descend 11–12 meters via rappel to the saddle of the talus ridge. Along the ridge, ascend beneath the rocky giant of the summit. From beneath the giant, traverse left along the yellow rocky ledge to a slab. Up and to the right along the slab (protection required!) to the ridge of the giant. From here, ascend along the simple broken rocks of the ridge to the summit of Donguzorun. From the summit of Azau-Gitche-Chegetkar — 4–5 hours. Descent from the summit via category IB difficulty from the south, along simple rocks to a slab.

• Down and to the left along the slab to the yellow rocky ledge.

Route Description

From the "Baksan" alpine base, the group departed by car at 8:00 on June 30, 1975, to the lower station of the "Cheget" ropeway and ascended to the "Ai" café. From here, the movement:

• is to the right along the road for 20 minutes,
• then along a faintly marked trail,
• traversing the northeastern slopes of Maly Donguzorun peak,
• we ascend to a saddle in the northern ridge. This is the starting point of the route. The path from the "Ai" café to the saddle takes 3 hours. The first control cairn was set up on the saddle. At 14:00, the group began moving from the saddle in rope teams, to the right along the ridge on snow for 100–120 m below the wall. Up the steep wall (80° steepness) for 15 m to the right and upwards, and exit onto the ridge (pitons used for protection).

Description, Marinuto

The path from "Terekos" to "Kurnik". At the beginning, at the 14-year end, it does not provide conveniently erroneous simple and impeccable things. From "Kurnik" common smooth and short and dry oxidations, refusing oxidations. Along the length of oxidation, given in oxidation, in 12–14 years at 8:00–10:00:

• refusing smooth
• not refusing oxidation yielding from the execution of skis. The violation is not violated for oxidation, gives and 10 m. Inside conveniently marinuto, violation. With a violation at the 14-year end, and 80 m. Inside, violation, on

65. Traverse of the Donguzorun massif from east to west (route by V. Kabanov, category IIIA difficulty). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the Eastern peak of the Donguzorun massif is described in routes 61 and 63. From the Eastern peak, ascent to the Main peak of the massif follows a broad rocky-snow ridge, with occasional steep sections, overcoming small gendarmes directly. Descent from the Main peak follows a snowy ridge with small connecting sections, as well as small gendarmes that can be passed directly, leading to the Western peak. Descent along the southwestern slopes with an overnight stay on a platform under the southwestern ridge of Nakra peak is described in route 56. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2×30 m, auxiliary cordelette - 2 m, rock pitons - 3-4, ice screws - 4-5, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites are practically available on all sections of the main massif's ridge. ("Baksan valley", A.F. Naumov)

1 reddish rock 2 north-west ridge 3 Descent route to Nrik-chat valley