Passport

1. Class: Second ascent (first ascent done by Semenov S.A. and Dumaĭskaya E.L. in 1999).
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Okhotnik peak via NE ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2A.
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 1090 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Duration: 12 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of ascent to the saddle to the start of descent.
8. Leader: Drakin A.V., CMS, participants:
   • Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category;

V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991

Passport

1. Class — snow-ice.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
6. Moving time 7 hours.
7. The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.

Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).

PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
4. Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
6. Ice screws 21 pcs.
7. Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
8. Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

Ascent Record.

1. Climbing area: ALTAI REPUBLIC, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
2. Summit: SIBIRYAK 3400 m.
3. Route: SIBIRYAK summit — East ridge.
4. Difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain 1000 m
• length of 1B difficulty sections 300 m
• average slope 30°

6. Piton usage on the route: no

Passport

1. Ice class
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
6. Ice screws 26 pcs.
7. Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stay not required.
9. Leader Kirikov A.

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.

Pik Tamma

Approaches to the summit are possible:

• from the Aktru valley with an ascent to the Maashay pass
• from the Maashay valley with an ascent to the same pass from the east
• along the Maashay ridge, traversing it to the east
• from the south from the Karagem valley The most logical and at the same time simple path to the summit is the path from the Aktru valley, the second in difficulty is the path from the Maashay glacier, the most difficult is the path to the summit from the west along the ridge, as the ascent and traverse of this ridge are difficult. The ascent from the Aktru valley is initially done by the usual route. They go to an overnight stay on the moraine by the lake, then cross the glacier to the first ascent. When reaching the first ascent, they go left, taking direction towards the visible lowering in the South-Aktru ridge — this is the Maashay pass. After passing a bit, another ascent begins with a steepness of about 35° and a height of around 100 m. After passing this ascent, a steady ascent begins with a steepness of up to 25°. Bergschrunds are encountered along the way. The largest one is at the bend at the top, where the slope gradually flattens out and reaches 8–10°. To the right of the pass point, there are rocks with a cairn on them. The time it takes to move from the overnight stay by the lake on the moraine to the pass point is 3–4 hours and strongly depends on the state of the glacier and snow.