Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 6 5. Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Pamir, Darvaz ridge, Mazarsaya valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: traverse of peaks Bereznyak (5000) and Bakhchivandzhi (5150) with ascent to peak Bereznyak via the eastern buttress
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1040 m. total route length to peak Bakhchivandzhi 3500 m
6. Pitons driven:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — High-altitude-technical.
2. Climbing area — Western Pamir, spur of Darvaz Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — unnamed, 5500 m, via the middle buttress of the western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, average steepness to the ridge — 65°.
6. Number of driven pitons for belay and artificial climbing holds (ICH): rock pitons — 155, including 22 for ICH, ice pitons — — , bolt pitons — —
7. Number of walking hours — 51.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

PASSPORT

1. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Darvaz Range 3. Peak Suraysha, via the right bastion of the eastern wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent 5. Height difference — 1405 m, length: wall — 1675 m, ridge — 300–400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1095 m. Average steepness: ice — 52°, rocky part — 76°, overall wall — 88°, including 6B category of complexity 83° (4700–4910), 82° (5030–5270) 6. Pitons driven:

1. ASCENT CLASS: High-altitude-technical.
2. ASCENT AREA: Mazarsky Ridge, Pamir.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Peak 5772 m (central summit) via the southwestern edge (first ascent).
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B, first ascent.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 2572 m, length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 1135 m, average steepness:
   • approach to the start of the southwestern edge — 35° (with a height difference of 270 m),
   • along the southwestern edge — 50° (with a height difference of 1930 m),
   • along the pre-summit ridge — 55° (with a height difference of 372 m),
   • entire ascent route (from the glacier to the summit) — 55°.

First ascents of Peak 5285m

(p. Akik-Toо)

Peak 5285m is located in the western part of the main Zavlastnoy ridge, at the junction with the ridge where p. Sverdlova is situated. The ascent was made from the intermediate camp at 3800m of the Sverdlov Jubilee expedition. The intermediate base camp at 3800m was located on the old side, covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the 3800m camp goes along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Kyik river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, there is an exit to the scree, where you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, there is a pass through the ridge coming from Peak 5150m (p. Metallurgov Urala). It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left moraine of the Kok-Kyik glacier), which leads almost under the route. On the flat moraine, it's not hard to find a convenient spot for tents. The height is 4200m. The entire approach from the 3800m camp takes 3–4 hours. The approach to the wall is made across the closed glacier. Closer to the wall, you need to walk between avalanche deposits. One or two rope lengths before the wall, there is a bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge. Further, across the ice-firn slope, we exit with insurance under the beginning of the rock section. The ascent begins at the border of the rusty wall with black rocks (like sheep's foreheads) on the left. Further:

• Along an inclined ledge up to the right for 10–15m;

Protocol № 249 dated April 8, 1966

Cat. diff. 4A

Description of the first ascent to the summit 5285 m (Peak Akыk-Too)

The summit 5285 m is located in the western part of the main Trans-Alay range, at the junction with the ridge where Peak Sverdlova is situated. The ascent was made from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk Jubilee expedition. The intermediate base camp at 3800 m was located on an old moraine covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik valley. The path from the 3800 m camp goes along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Kyik river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, there is an exit onto scree, and it is necessary to turn right, bypassing the spurs of Peak Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, it is necessary to cross the ridge coming from the summit 5150 m (Peak Metallurgov Urala). Overcoming the ridge takes 20–30 minutes. Behind the ridge begins a flat black lateral moraine (orographically left of the Kok-Kyik river), which leads almost under the route. On the flat moraine, it is not difficult to find a convenient area for tents. Elevation 4200 m. The entire approach from the 3800 m camp takes 3–4 hours. The approach to the wall occurs across a closed glacier. Closer to the wall, it is necessary to walk between avalanche deposits. One or two rope lengths before the wall, a bergschrund is encountered, which is overcome via a snow bridge. Further up the ice-snow slope, we exit with belay under the beginning of the rock section.

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev) via the Northwest Slope, Category 3B

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev. Route name: via the northwest slope
3. Category of difficulty — proposed 3B.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

148

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Ullarg (4320 m) via the North face, accomplished by the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp from August 4 to 9, 1968 USSR Alpine Championship 1968. Technical ascents category Moscow, 1968 Fig. 1. The North face of Ullarg summit. (Taken from the upper reaches of Songuti glacier on August 5, 1968)

Team Composition

Captain: