Route Description

Ascent to peak KALTSIT - 2A category of difficulty via the northwest ridge. From the base camp, cross the meadow with a rain gauge to the BIOB River. Cross the river and ascend on the right side of the couloir towards peak KALTSIT to a meadow with a snow-measuring marker. The beginning of the couloir is approximately 1 km from the confluence of the ARG and BIOB rivers. The upper part of the couloir leads to a narrow snow couloir in a small ridge adjacent to peak Kaltsit (Fig. 1). The slope of the snow in the lower part of the couloir is 20°, and in the upper part, it is 30°–45°. The length of the entire couloir is about 100 m. The passage through the couloir is done either on snow with mandatory piton belay on rocks or, in unfavorable snow conditions (hard snow, ice, little snow), on the left rocks with piton belay or via perms. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The time it takes to reach the base of the couloir from the base camp is about 2 hours. The mentioned couloir leads to a saddle. Then, move traversely left and upwards to a pyramidal snow patch with a characteristic rocky outcrop in the middle (Fig. 2). The slope of the snow patch in the lower part is 10°. Further, the slope increases to 30° (near the rocky outcrop). It is convenient to pass the snow patch along small rocky outcrops stretched in the direction of movement. Bypassing the rocky outcrop on the left, ascend to the upper part of the snow patch. Then, traverse right and upwards (2–3 ropes) on rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay or via ledges - outcrops) to the saddle (Fig. 2). The saddle is located to the left of a three-pronged rocky gendarme. From the saddle, traverse, bypassing the gendarme on the right, and move along the ridge to the summit. The exit to the summit is via a simple internal angle, broken from massive stone slabs. Throughout the path along the ridge, belay is done via outcrops.

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

«Landari» No.2 is bypassed by unsecured climbing. Further along the ridge, there is a steep (60–70°) ascent (2 ropes, 3 pitons). After the ascent, we approach the faceted «handarm» No.3. «Landari» is bypassed from the left along narrow sheer ledges and partially on snow (150 m). The ledges lead into the base of the inner corner (60 m). Climbing is of medium difficulty (2 pitons). There are many loose stones in this area. After the corner, we reach the shoulder before the large gray «handarm» No.4. The ascent to this point took 6 hours. To the right of the «handarm», we ascend a steep oval couloir (20 m) and enter a passage between the rocky walls. Along the right wall (70°), we reach the ridge between «handarms» 4 and 5. 3 pitons are driven into the wall (40 m). From the ridge, we begin moving along a chimney — difficult, using friction, spreading, and jamming of limbs (3 pitons). The chimney leads to smooth slabs on the right side of «handarm» 5. The steepness is 50–55°. The slabs have a horizontal crack along which we pass this section (2 pitons). After the slabs:

• we continue to bypass «Handarm» 5 from the right along rocks of medium difficulty,
• after which we reach the ridge between «Handarms» 5 and 6,
• along a narrow ledge, we traverse «Handarm» 6 from the left to a chimney with an overhang and a ring at the top (0 m). Climbing is difficult, especially at the top (2 pitons). The chimney leads to the top of «Handarm» 6. From «handarm» No.6, we organize a belay down the rope (30 m) for the changeover using the «handarm» No.6 and the summit tower. Movement along the changeover is along narrow ledges with snow. Then, a vertical crevice (12 m) leads to the pre-summit ridge. Further movement to the summit is simultaneous. The path from the shoulder of «handarm» No.4 to the summit took 4.5 hours.

Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

Пик Сибирский is located in the northwestern spur of the Dukdsan massif. Its height is 4900 m. The peak has several ridges descending into the Archa-Mapdan and Sary-Khodok river gorges. The group planned a route along the northwest ridge. The initial impression of the route is deceptive. The ridge appears to be quite gentle. Its considerable length is not immediately apparent, as the ridge's bends are not visible. Due to the virtual overlap of parallel ridges, it is difficult to discern the actual relief of the route. The lack of clear visibility is confirmed by previous attempts to traverse this route. One group from our expedition, expecting a one-day ascent, turned back after reaching the "Mirror". Additionally, a note from 1954, left by a group from the "Varzob" alpine camp led by A.A. Kuznetsov, was found on the ridge, indicating that they had reached the "Mirror" with one overnight stay. They rated the completed part of the route as 4A category of difficulty and refused to continue the ascent. All this helped us to correctly assess the route and determine the duration of the ascent.

Route Description

July 18, 1968. We left the base camp at 8:00. The ascent to the snow-ice couloir takes 2 hours. The couloir is passable in the first half of the day, as the risk of rockfall increases later. Ascent:

• 4 ropes on snow, местами по льду с рубкой ступеней
• Steepness 4С–5С

Navigation is difficult (3 pitons). After the chimney, we reach the shoulder. From the shoulder upwards along the ruined rocks and talus, we reach the ridge. On the right, just below the ridge, on a rocky ledge, is the 1st control point. Further along the ruined rocky ridge, we pass to a monolithic rocky ridge, which we knock down from the left, descending onto a snowfield (photo 1). Along the snowfield with a steepness of 30° (3 ropes), we ascend to the talus leading to a section of gray moistened rocks - the "Ram's Foreheads". From the ridge to the "Ram's Foreheads", 4 hours are spent. Taking slightly to the right from the ridge, we approach a couloir made of red stone with an overhanging rock above. This section is the first to be passed without a rope. Navigation is difficult: 7 m (2 pitons). After the couloir, we emerge onto an inclined shelf with talus. From here, a traverse of the steep right wall of the "Ram's Foreheads" begins (photo 2). The traverse (6 ropes) requires great physical and moral tension. The belay is piton (14 pitons). The last выступ of the "Ram's Foreheads" can be passed by making a traverse slightly downwards, but at the end, there is a very difficult exit to the ridge. It is easier to continue moving upwards along a barely discernible inclined shelf (6 m, 2 pitons) with an exit to the ridge. 15 m along the ridge and a steep descent into a gap. The "Ram's Foreheads" are passed in 4 hours. Further movement along the ridge with alternating belay through ledges (150 m). We approach a large inclined slab (45–50°). We pass the slab in the lower part, where there are good handholds (40 m, 1 piton). After the slab, there is a small descent along the couloir, and then an ascent along a steep, loose talus, 50 m, and we find ourselves on a large rocky plateau before the "Mirror". On the plateau is the 2nd control point and an overnight stay. Time: 19:00. July 19, 1963. At 9:00, we approached the "Mirror" (photo 3).

The traverse goes right 1 cm with an exit to a heavily destroyed shelf. Along the shelf to the left with a crack in the inner corner. To the left is an overhanging wall. The entrance is along the right wall (12 m). Steepness 80° (3 hooks). We enter a sloping wet stone. Then we follow along the ridge of a snow patch with a steepness of 60° (20 m, one hook). We exit onto an inclined shelf with wet snow turned to ice. After the shelf, there is an inner corner with a crack (15–20 m, 5 hooks). Difficult climbing, few footholds (photo 4). After the corner, there is a shelf with good ledges for belay. It took 4 hours to overcome these sections. From the shelf with alternating belay, we exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, we approach the "Ыандарum". We bypass it on the right along the way, along small shelves (50–60 m). Then, along a 20 m crack (60°), we exit again onto the ridge. Along the ridge with alternating belay, we approach the second "Ыандарum", which is overcome directly. The ascent is 25 m, rocks of medium difficulty, steepness 60–70° (2 hooks). Descent from the "Ыандарum" is 15 m. There follows a new wave of the ridge with a steepness of 70–75° (2 ropes, 2 hooks). Further along the snowy ridge, 4 ropes with alternating belay through an ice axe. Again, a rocky ridge, which leads to a heavily destroyed gully. Descent along the gully to a rocky ridge with a width of 4–5 m and a length of 10 m. Stesova, having fixed a rope, descends 20 m down, onto the pre-summit ridge. Traversing to the right, she exits onto a steeply rising pre-summit ridge. Climbing of medium difficulty with alternating belay, in some places simultaneous movement is possible. After 6 ropes, she exits onto the summit. Time 17:40, they dismantled the cairn. By the right of the first ascenders, they named the summit peak "Сибирский" (Sibirskiy). The descent is via the ascent route. At the key section, they had to leave two hooks with loops.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

Report

The teams of climbers from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on the "Skalnaya стена" peak via the southern wall from the "Khoroshevsky" pass, category 4B-5A (approximately). July 30 - August 1, 1968, Fann Mountains. Protocol No. 293 dated 10.XII.68. Category 4B. The group is credited with a first ascent. Tolyatti

Route map