PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier.
3. Peak 6113 m, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970).
6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

53a

USSR Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team Team leader: I.V. Bozhko Coach: A.M. Bychek 1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club 252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16

Passport

1. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area 3. Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall 4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m) 6. Pitons driven:

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK FIKKER (6718 m) BY THE SPORTS CLUB AN SSSR TEAM Pamir, July–August 1960 Map of the expedition area: 1 — Base camp, 2 — First cave, 3 — Second cave.

Area of Operation

Pik Fikker (see Figs. 1, 3) with a height of 6718 m is located approximately in the middle of the mountains of the southern Fedchenko group, bordering the right (orographic) bank of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko glacier (see photo scheme). To the north and south from Pik Fikker, the main ridges extend to other peaks of the southern Fedchenko group. The eastern slopes of Pik Fikker descend directly onto the Vitskovsky glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko glacier significantly to the north, and the western slopes feed a small (unnamed) glacier, also a tributary of the Fedchenko glacier. Below, we will refer to it as the Fikker glacier.

REPORT on the first ascent of v. Kholodnaya Stena via the northwestern ridge, category 3B Group composition:

• Leader:
• Participants: Ponomarchuk V.S., CMS; Matveenko V.M., MS; Ivanov N.R., CMS; Krasnukhin L.I., CMS; Nastobursky A.N., CMS; Kapustina T.D., 1st sports category. 1980

Brief geographical overview

Passport

Ascent Details

1. Ascent type: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, Maly Yazgulem ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak: Dik Cold Wall, 5959 m, via the northwest route
4. Anticipated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1520 m length of 3rd category terrain — 420 m, average steepness — 28°
6. Pitons used: for protection: rock — 15, camming devices — 11, ice screws — 3, bolted pitons — none. for creating artificial holds — none.

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
3. Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
4. Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
5. Route characteristics:
   • combined route
   • total elevation gain: 1500 m
   • wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
   • ridge elevation gain: 400 m
   • total route length: 3770 m

59а

1. Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
6. Pitons used:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, eastern spurs of the Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, route: Kholodnaya стена, 5979 m, via the center of the North face 4. Difficulty category: 6B 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1500 m
• Length of sections:
  • 6th category difficulty: 760 m
  • 5th category difficulty: 860 m

I. Ascent category — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Ascent route — p. Kholodnaya Stena 5959 m via the center of the East wall (second ascent, Kovtun's route) 4. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1580 m;
• route length — 2005 m;
• average steepness — 74°;
• length of complex sections — 1375 m;
• average steepness of the "mirror" — 87° with a length of 740 m.

5. Pitons driven: