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Ascent to the summit of Perednyaya Chotcha via the North-West ridge, category 4B difficulty level, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

  • right — upwards 35–40 m,
  • then left — upwards,
  • exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:
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The traverse of Perednaya and Zadnaya Chotchi (3640 m) with ascent along the North-Eastern edge is a 4B cat. diff. route, 6–7 hrs to the saddle and 16–17 hrs in total.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.

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Ascent to the summit of Herzog via the Northeast Ridge: route, difficulty categories, recommendations for climbers, and necessary equipment.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope:

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Ascent to the peak Ertsog via the eastern ridge, category 4A, route description, recommendations for climbers and necessary equipment.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

4. Ascent to the Ertzog peak via the eastern ridge — category 4A difficulty (see Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turiy Lake, then:

  • up the moraine,
  • then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is broken, thorough belay!),
  • to the left of two rocky outcrops along a steep snowy ascent to the Ertzog saddle. Bivouac location.
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Climbing route description for Peak Yubileynyy via the West face, category 5A, located in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Makhar pass)
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Yubileynyy (3567 m) via the Western wall
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 475 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 245 m average steepness — 67°
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Report on the ascent of the KCHR team to the peak of Pik Ine 3455 m via the southern ridge, complexity category 3B, with a detailed description of the route and approach.

REPORT

On the ascent of the KCR team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the south ridge. Confirmed 3B category of difficulty. Restore justice - return the forgotten route to the classifier. Semenov M. A. - CMS Popov A. Yu. - 3rd sports category Date of report: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

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Report on the ascent of the KCR team to the summit of Bolshaya Khatipara 3250 m via the Eastern ridge, complexity category 1B.

ASCENT REPORT OF KCHR TEAM TO THE SUMMIT OF BOLSHAYA KHATIPARA 3250 m

Via the eastern ridge. Category 1B. Restoring justice — returning the forgotten route to the classifier. Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Semenov M. A. — Candidate for Master of Sports Report compiled in November 2019.

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

ASCENT PARTICIPANTS

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Report on the first ascent to the top of Murudzhinskaya Iglа via the western ridge, category 2A difficulty level, by the MAK "Freeline" team on October 1-2, 2022.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO MURUDZHINSKAYA NEEDLE VIA THE WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE "FREELINE" MAC TEAM, OCTOBER 1-2, 2022

Climbing Report Form

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderDonskov Andrey Mikhailovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsAnkudinov Alexey Ivanovich, 2nd sports rank
Popova Varvara Valeryevna, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMotienko Nikolai Ilyich
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline", Essentuki
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1RegionFrom Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
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Report on the first ascent of the eastern edge of the summit Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m, difficulty category 2B.

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent

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Description of the category 3B route to Semenov-Vas peak (3602 m) via the southern slope in the Western Caucasus.

ASCENT PASSPORT

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Semyonov-Bashi peak 3602 m via the central bastion of the southern wall
  4. Expected difficulty category — 3A
  5. Height difference — 1100 m
  6. Pitons driven (rock anchors for belaying) — 4
  7. Number of travel hours — 5
  8. Participants — Abarbarchuk Georgy Samuilovich, CMS, 2nd sports category. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, CMS, 3rd sports category.
  9. Date of team's departure on the route and return — July 8, 1981
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