Report

On the ascent of Peak Box via the center of the eastern wall by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" alpine club on July 31, 2023

I. Climbing Report Details

and exit under an overhanging chimney (20 m). There is a small platform for belay under the chimney. The chimney is overcome “head-on” (section 6–7), ladders are used if necessary. Further movement goes along a steep crack, going up to the right (section 7–8). Climbing is difficult, rocks are badly destroyed in some places, belay is mainly with the help of stoppers. Having passed 90–100 m, we go up to the left onto the slabs (section 8–9). Climbing is very difficult and is hampered by the lack of cracks for pitons and places for stoppers. (Petal pitons are required in this area) Further -

• traverse of the right couloir /section 9–10/, in its upper part,
• movement along steep slabs with a small number of holds /section 10–11/,
• exit to the ridge of Konfirs. Along the steep destroyed rocks of the ridge, movement is in the direction of the pass, located to the left of v. Aelita /section 11–12/. Movement is simultaneous, belay through ledges. Further to the right - up - exit to the summit along simple rocks. There is a control cairn here. When exiting to the summit (section 12–13), caution should be observed, because the area is characterized by a large number of “live” stones, lightly grasped by ice. Descent along the ridge in the direction of v. Sadko (section 13–14). Not reaching 100 m to the strongest lowering in the ridge, descent to the side of the Zapadnogo Cirque glacier (4 sports category) (section 14–15). The bergschrund is overcome by jumping (section 15–16). Movement on the glacier is in roped teams, because the glacier is heavily crevassed in this part.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Ayu-Tor gorge
3. Peak: Mendeleyevec Peak 4200 m
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics a) Elevation gain — 900 m b) Length of R5–R6 sections — 578 m c) Average steepness — 67°
6. Pitons driven: 79

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, ridge — Teskey Ala-Too
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Mendeleevets, 4122 m, along the left edge of the northern wall triangle.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m (wall part 680 m), length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 375 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°.
6. Number of pitons and placements used: for belay 164, for TSD — 38.
7. Number of travel hours — 25 (including 21 on the wall).

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge. 3. Peak Tulenina, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed 5A category, 2nd ascent. 5. Height difference: 705 m, route length 5205 m, average slope 58°, average slope of wall section 77°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 60, chocks 12, including for belays: 72,

PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

I. Climbing type: rock, 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, 3. Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B, 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 910 m,
• length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m,
• average steepness — 68°,

6. Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0