Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
6. Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
7. Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
8. Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.

Ascent Report to Peak Rufina via the Southeast Ridge

First ascent. Cat. 2B.

• Route classification: Technical.
• Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range. Alaudin Valley.
• Peak name, height, route: Peak Rufina (4150 m), via the 3rd ridge.
• Cat. sl.: 2B.
• Elevation gain: from the start of the route to the summit – approximately 400 m. Wall section – 300 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 40°.
• Equipment on the route: 1 rope 10 mm × 50 m. Anchor pitons – 5 pcs., chocks – set, cams – 6 pcs., pitons – 5 pcs., 2 sets of trekking poles.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — V. SARYSHKH, 4650 m, via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 650 m, wall section elevation gain — 375 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average slope of the entire route — 40°, average slope of the wall section — 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 48, for creating anchor points — 1. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics — 1, safe, convenient, on a rocky ridge.

Ascent Record (3rd Passage)

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°, section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------- | :-------- | :--------------- |

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Fan Mountains. Zeravshan Range. 3. Sary-Shakh peak, 4650 m, via the right part of the North face (through the cleft) 4. 5B category of difficulty (repeat ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of 5th-6th category sections — 540 m, average steepness — 80 — 85° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 89 used to create intermediate belays — 17, bolted pitons — 2, used cams, stoppers — 46 7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours 8. Number of bivouacs — 2

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category 2. Pamir-Alay. Northern part of Fann Mountains. Surkhob valley. 3. Peak 4100 m (Surkhob) via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1030 m, route length 1250 m. Length of sections:

• 5 category of difficulty — 1000 m
• 6 category of difficulty — 400 m Average slope of the route 62°. Average slope of the wall section of the route 70°.

2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Summit — Tashkentent — 3900 m via the North Ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 2A. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th difficulty category — none. 6. Pitons hammered for belay: - rock pitons — 4 pcs. - ice screws — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains,
3. Summit — Timur, 3900 m, via the eastern ridge, from Zapadny Kitudak Pass, new route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m; average slope — 45°; route — combined.
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying: rock — 12, chocks — 4, ice screws — 8.
   • For artificial climbing aids — none.
7. Duration of ascent — 9 hours.

Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.