ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: (in accordance with KTMVG) Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass. 3. Peak, its height and route: Chegem, 4461 m, via the Northwest wall of the Northeast ridge. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope of the wall directly 75-80 degrees, average slope of the ascent route 50-55 degrees. Length of sections: 1st category difficulty — 0 m, 2nd category difficulty — 400 m, 3rd category difficulty — 570 m, 4th category difficulty — 330 m, 5th category difficulty — 150 m, 6th category difficulty — 80 m. 6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: - Rock: 48

Ascent Record

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem valley, Adyr ridge, classified under KMGV as 2.4.1
2. Peak Chegem, 4461 m, ascent via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan).
3. Route category: 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1160 m. Route length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 248 m, with 6th category difficulty: 108 m. Average steepness:
   • wall section: 92°;

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-Tau, Chegem node between Donkin and Freshfield passes.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Chegem, 4461 m, combined route along the north-eastern wall of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1290 m, average slope up to the summit ridge (i.e., up to R24 height difference 1120 m, absolute height 4320 m) — 55°. Average slope of the wall section (i.e., up to R14 height difference 435 m, absolute height 3600 m) — 88°. Length of sections: 2 — 500 m, 3 — 200 m, 4 — 650 m, 5 — 230 m, 6 — 320 m.
6. Pitons driven: | For belaying | For artificial support | | :----------- | :--------------------- | | Rock 164 | 31 |

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Adyrsky ridge; section according to the classification table 2.4.1. From the Gumači summit to the Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem gorges).
2. Name of the summit: Chegem (4461 m), name of the route: via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge (V. Forstyan, 1977).
3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1160 m (by altimeter). Route length: 1880 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. diff. — 148 m.
• VI cat. diff. — 138 m. Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, table 2.4.1.№p. p154.
2. Name of the peak Chegem — route name N.E. wall N.E. ridge (Forostyan).
3. Route complexity: 6A.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1161 m
6. Route length: 1616 m
7. Length of sections: V difficulty category – 285 m; VI difficulty category – 226 m
8. Average steepness: main part of the route – 85°; entire route – 60°.
9. Number of anchors on the route: Friends – 81/10

Report

on the first ascent of Shogentsukova peak via the South-Eastern wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Ullu-tau 2007

Route Passport

1. Mountain system — Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. Name of the peak: Shogentsukova peak Peak number according to the 2001 classification table: 2.4.161
2. Route name: via the South-Eastern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 4A Passage: 1st passage

From the CPS (group of 4–6 people) down the highway of the Baksan valley past the village of Elbrus to the bridge over the Baksan River. Having crossed the bridge over the Baksan River to the right (orographic) bank of Baksan, turn right and ascend along the trail on the left bank along the way, against the current, to the moraine outflow of the first stream (Andyrchi River). Cross the stream flowing from the circus located under the northern walls of the Andyrchi-MNR ridge, and, turning left, ascend along the trail to the moraine outflow. Further:

• up the coarse scree of the couloir along the right bank of the stream;
• from the place of the bifurcation of the stream and the couloir — ascent along its left branch (in the right one — a waterfall);
• above the right waterfall — exit from the couloir along the rocks to the right onto the trail;
• along the trail onto the steep grassy slopes overgrown with small forest;
• then up the scree — to the right onto the moraine platforms near the Black Rocks. On the platforms — the initial bivouac. From the bridge over Baksan — 3–4 hours. From the platforms on the moraine ridge, descend traversing to the left along the scree. Then, along the snowy slope, exit to the "ram's foreheads" on the right side of the first (lower) rocky island of the Northern wall of Andyrchi peak. Along the following sections:
• steep grassy ledges

Ascent Record

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA.
2. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty — 345 m;
• 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0

I. Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m.
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°.
6. Number of pitons used:

   ice	rock	chocks	bolt
   		elements

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: