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Route Description: 1-му кф. С гребня
Description of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B, with information on approaches and technical passage of the route.
Description of the state of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:
- snow-ice
- rock sections do not present technical difficulties
Approaches
To get to the village of Verkhny Koni, register at the border post (the summit is located in a border area, and a permit is required to climb; it's best to obtain it in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau. 2 km further up the gorge is a border post, the farthest point reachable by car. From the border post, a gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) leads up the Genaldon gorge to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier. This is where the base camp for climbing Mt. Kazbek from the north is located. There are places for tents and water. The distance from the border post to the springs is about 9 km, taking around 4 hours on foot. The trail continues over a suspension bridge across the Genaldon river to the lateral moraine of the Maili glacier, ending at the glacier's tongue. Then:
- climb onto the tongue of the Maili glacier (morphology changes frequently, from a steep ice wall to a gentle passage consisting of moraine deposits) near its western edge,
- cross to the lateral moraine and move along it beside the Genaldon river until a left (orographic) tributary flows into it,
Route Description: В гребню
Description of category 1B complexity route to Donchentn peak (4192) in the Caucasus, including path characteristics, belay, and ascent photos.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: rock (combined)
- Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon River valley
- Peak, route: Donchenty (4192), E ridge
- Estimated category of difficulty: 1B rock, partially traversed
- Route characteristics: height difference — 850 m, route length — 1250 m, length of sections with category 2 difficulty — 120 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
- Pitons hammered: protection through ice axe and rock outcrops.
- Number of walking hours/days — 12/1 (7 hours).
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Zamaraeva via the South-West ridge, category 1B, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia on July 6-7, 2019.
Report
on the first ascent to the top of Zamaraeva, along the South-West ridge, category 1B difficulty, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia and Tsentrospas on July 6-7, 2019 2019
1. Ascent Passport
| №№ | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sport rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports |
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent to Zeкара Peak (3828 m) via the North Ridge, complexity category 1Б-2А, climbed by a group of rescuers in 2007.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Zrug gorge, Classification section number 2.8.
- Zekara (3828 m) — via the North Ridge.
- Proposed category: 1B-2A, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Route elevation gain — about 600 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 2 km. Length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — 80°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
- Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — none. Chocks used on the route — 5.
Route Description: с юга по СЗ гребню
**Route to Kariu Peak via the Northwest Ridge**: a detailed path description, challenges, and landmarks for experienced climbers.
105. Kariu via Northwest Ridge
Rocky route by V. Ivanova, 3A, fig. 2, 88, 139, 140. Length: 2000–2500 m. Time: 8–10 hours. Approach:
- From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–6 people), take a bus via TKM to Zintsar village. From Vladikavkaz – 2 hours.
- At the village, turn left, cross the Ardon River by bridge, and drive along a dirt road to Urs village, above which the ancient Tsamatskaya fortress is situated.
- From the village, turn left and ascend via a trail, to the right of the fortress, to a grassy pasture plateau (1–1.5 hours from Urs).
Attention: there is no water above Urs village! Route:
- Across the pasture plateau, approach the right side of a narrow couloir-gully running along the South wall of the Northwest ridge of Kariu peak, 200 m to the right of a white vein.
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
Description of a new Category 1B route to Quartzly Peak (3577 m) in the Baddon River gorge in the Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus; Baddon river gorge (right tributary of the Ardon river); section number in the Classification 2.8.
- p. Kvarcevyy (peak Mukhina East ridge) — 3577 m; from the South up the South-East counterfort.
- Category 1B; first ascent.
- Route type — rocky.
- Route elevation gain — 450 m. Length about 900 m. Steepness of key sections is 80°. Average steepness of the whole route is 30°.
- Pitons left on the route — 1.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent to the top of Kormilin via the North-West ridge, a category 2A climb, by the team from the North Ossetian Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit of Kormilina via the Northwest Ridge, category 2A, by the team of the North Ossetian Rescue Squad of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia, from July 5 to 6, 2019.
1. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Tekhov V.M. — honored master, Chikin A.B. — 2nd sports rank, Kulchiev A.S. — 3rd sports rank, Arakelyants V.M. — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Egorin S.V. |
Route Description: Ю гребню
Report on the first ascent of the South Peak of the Pik Mirotvorcev via the south ridge, category 2B, made by a group of climbers on August 14, 2012.
Report
on the first ascent of the Southern tower of the Mirrotvorcev Peak, 3411 m via the Southern ridge. Approximately — category 2B. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on July 14, 2012, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. The ascent is dedicated to:
- the 20th anniversary of the introduction of Peacekeeping Forces
- that stopped the war on the territory of the Republic of South Ossetia. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, upper reaches of the Cheselt-don river south of the Main Caucasian Ridge, between the Zekara-don gorge to the west and the Strikom gorge to the east
Route Description: З гребню
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Novgorodsky Yu. (3462 m) along the Western ridge, category 1B, made by Vladikavkaz climbers on August 23, 2009.
Report
On the first ascent of v. Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m) via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Completed by the mountaineers of the Mountain Club SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on May 23, 2009. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: rock
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsadzhitudon river valley, 2.8
- Peak, route: Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m), Western ridge
- Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock, first ascent
- Route characteristics:
Route Description: с востока через Ачкерьякольский лавовый поток
Report on the ascent to the summit of Elbrus East (5621 m) from the east via Achkieryachkol lava flow, category 2A.
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.
from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru