2nd Ascent

Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.

Umarov's Report

On the ascent to the summit "Peak 5600" (approximately 2B category of difficulty) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club The summit "Peak 5600" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern ridges of the Peter the First ridge. Diagram of the summit location. From a sporting perspective, this summit is of interest as an object for training and acclimatization ascents. Characteristic features of this route, as well as many routes in this area, are:

• Unstable rock formations;
• Unpredictable weather conditions;
• High altitude. The initial section of the route: the upper part of the Suloev meadow (absolute height 3900 m) - the boundary of the snow cover; it passes to the north on the left side of the couloir along a medium scree with an average steepness of approximately 30–40°. Further along the snowy slope, it becomes gentler at a height of 5100 m. At this height, near a large reddish rock (about 10 m in diameter), an overnight stay was organized for acclimatization purposes. The entire section of the route from the Suloev meadow to the reddish rock took 5 hours. The path then lies along a snowy ridge with a gentle slope to the northwest to the pre-summit rise. The time taken for this section was 1 hour. The pre-summit rise is a snowy slope with small rocky outcrops with a steepness of approximately 40–45°. Here, protection is possible using an ice axe. The time taken for this section and the descent to the reddish rock was 2 hours. The further descent follows the ascent route.

Report on the Ascent of Peak Babel via the Southwest Wall, Category 5A

The object of the 1972 expedition by the Moscow Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society was the Shakhdarin Ridge in the Southwestern Pamir. The Shakhdarin Ridge runs along the Pyanj River from west to east. Beyond the Pyanj and the Pamir River, the mountains of the Hindu Kush and the spurs of the Karakum are visible. To the left of the upper reaches of the Vakhan-Darya River, the highest point of the Vakhan Ridge, Peak Snowy Massif, is visible. At the confluence of the Pamir and Vakhan-Darya rivers, which form the Pyanj River, the Shakhdarin Ridge bends to the northeast. It is here that the most beautiful and highest peaks of the ridge are located:

• Peak Karl Marx, 6726 m (first ascent in 1946 by an expedition led by E. Abalakov);
• Peak Friedrich Engels, 6510 m (first ascent in 1954, led by Gvarliani);
• Peak Tajikistan, 6565 m (first ascent in 1962, led by Savvon). Peaks K. Marx and F. Engels were named in 1937 (geologist Klunnikov), and Peak Tajikistan was named only in 1962, the year of its first ascent. The object of the ascent being reported - Peak Babel - is located in the southeastern ridge branching off from the Shakhdarin Ridge at Peak F. Engels, between the Kishty-Jerob and Kasvir glaciers (see diagram). The expedition's base camp was set up under the tongue of the Kishty-Jerob glacier, located between the southern and southeastern ridges branching off from Peak F. Engels, on a large green plateau at an altitude of 4000 m.

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

For the USSR Championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall. Sports team of Tomsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team captain and coach (G. Andreev), Tomsk, 1969.

Report

On the ascent of Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall.

1. Geographical Location and Sports Characteristics of Peak 26 Baku Commissars

Peak 26 Baku Commissars, with a height of 6834 m, is centrally located in the Yazglem Ridge, which borders the Fedchenko Glacier to the south. The ridge, which descends steeply to the glacier, is at least 10–15 km long, with an average height of 6400–6800 m. The slopes are heavily covered with ice and snow. To the east, the Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) rises, merging with Peak 26 Baku Commissars through a slight depression. In the upper reaches, the Fedchenko Glacier has a nearly imperceptible slope over a distance of 10–12 km, from its beginning to the confluence with the Vitkovsky Glacier, opposite the Abdukagor II pass, and is covered with a thick layer of snow. Along the left bank of the glacier lies the Akademiya Nauk Ridge, which is relatively low in this area. The opposite side is significantly more imposing, with many peaks above 6000 m, the highest being Peak Fikкера at 6719 m. From Peak 26 Baku Commissars, a sharply defined ridge descends northward, along which a pioneering ascent was made in 1957 by a group led by E. Tamm. Since then, several ascents have been made to the summit from the north, and in 1964, an ascent was made from the west during a traverse by a team from the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Council of the peaks: Peak Paris Commune — Peak Revolyutsii.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

29

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CATEGORY

REPORT

Paustovsky's report on the ascent of Peak 6150 m / Peak S.A. Lavochkin / via the ice wall of the southwest ridge by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineering team, Pamir, August 1970 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":613,"height":782,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/kiiwctW7YfDTrYuGXfW6in9hITGhWxZz/img-0.jpeg","id":64770347})

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The gathering place for the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineers in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolution on the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The goal of the ascent was Peak 6150 m in the southwest ridge of Peak "26 Baku Commissars". The dominant peaks of the area are six-thousanders located in the northern part of the valley:

• Peak Revolution,
• Peak 26 Baku Commissars,

Report

on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii via the right part of the southeastern wall, ice-snow route, (A. Zaydler's route, 1976) category 5B, by the team of the Moscow Aviation Institute (MAI) alpinism club (Moscow), August 21, 2013.

Moscow, 2013 Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Yagnóblemsky Ridge
3. Summit, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabr'skoy Revolyutsii, 6940 m, via the right part of the southeastern wall from the Khabarvivkhats Glacier.
4. Difficulty category: 5B

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°