Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — 74 2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, southern spur 3. Peak, its height and route — peak Skalniy via the southern counterfort 4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B 5. Route characteristics * height difference — 500 m * average steepness — 5.945 * extent of sections 6. Number of pitons driven: rock, ice

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE USSR IN ALPINISM 1973

Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

PEAK TAJIKISTAN 6565 via the SOUTHEAST FACE The route was traversed by the team from LENINGRAD SPORTS COMMITTEE:

• Captain MS LOGACHEV Y.A.
• Senior coach MSMSK ZHITENEV F.N. Southwest Pamir
• 1973 Photo 2. Southeast face of Peak Tajikistan. Taken from Peak LGU.

Ii a c ii o p t

ascent made at the USSR Alpine Championship in 1973. I. Class of ascent — high-altitude-technical. 2. Area of ascent — North-West Pamir. 3. Route of ascent — Peak Tajikistan 6565 North-East wall. 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference — 1250 m, average steepness of the wall — 83°, edges — 50°, length of difficult sections — 650 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 151, ice — 6, bolt — 1. 6. Number of climbing hours — 53.

List

of the TsS DSO "Trud" team that participated in the country's championship in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents, having climbed the northeast wall of Peak Tajikistan 6565 m. Participants:

• 1. Chunovkin G.A., Master of Sports — team captain
• 2. Solonnikov V.A., Master of Sports — deputy captain
• 3. Shevchenko Yu.S., 1st category — doctor
• 4. Pugachev A.D., Master of Sports

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — TGU peak, 6183 m, center of the W wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1240 m. length of sections 5–6 km tr 1018 m average steepness 78° steepness of the most difficult sections 82–84°.

Ascent Passport 855

1. Ascent Class High-altitude and technical ascent
2. Ascent Region South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route Peak TGU, 6183 m, center of W wall
4. Assumed difficulty category 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference 1240 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1018 m
   • Average steepness 78°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO

Ascent Log

I. High-Altitude Technical Class

1. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdara Range.
2. Peak Tajik State University 6183 m via the east-south-eastern wall through the southern subpeak.
3. First ascent of the sixth category of difficulty (approximate).
4. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference 1000–1100 m;
   • Length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 1085 m, 5 cat. diff. — 225 m;
   • Average steepness 83° (steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 86°).
5. Pitons hammered: