REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF

V. Sverdlovsk via the RIGHT COUNTERFORT OF THE NORTH-EAST FACE – 4A CATEGORY DIFFICULTY Team leader Gnoevsky I.P. Mikhailov A.A. Yurinsky Yu.I.

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Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:

• S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
• S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
• B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.

Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge Peak — Sever 2826 m. GPS coordinates — 51°54′35.76″N 102°0′3.11″E Route:

• Via the Southeast ridge, proposed category 2B. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Route description:
• Height difference 320 m.
• Route length approximately 400 m.
• Average steepness of the route 52°.

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Sever (2830 m?) North-West ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Team Members:

• Ometov A.A.
• Putko K.V. 2013

Climbing Report

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Sever (2830 m?), NW ridge.

R46, 2830 m, 19:20, July 30, 2012

Report on the First Ascent

R34 Peak Sever (2830 m) via the North face of the Northwest shoulder. Route category 4B (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepitov A. A. Participants:

• Ilyinsky V. A.
• Scherbany A. N. R20–R10 R5–R1, 10:00

Report on the First Ascent

On peak Sever 2826 m. Via the center of the North face. Tentatively 5B category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sever 2826 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E). Via the center of the North face.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B. First ascent.
4. Route character — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 400 m. Route length: 600 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty — 200 m

Ascent Report

As part of the Siberian Federal District Alpine Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class 2024

Peak Sever (2826 m) via the center of the S wall, route 5Б cat. diff., Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river valley, 6.1.2 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Panova A.M.
• Ivanovskiy A.V. Ascent completed on August 3, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

| | 1. General Information | |

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.

Primorskaya Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Sibir 2870 m via the Center of the North Face. Approximately 5A category of difficulty.

I. Ascent Passport

Route Description

via the south-eastern ridge of Mt. SOAN (2952 m) in winter. Ascent date: May 5–6. From the base camp (1800 m), located at the fork of the Zuun-Khandagai River on the forest border, the group needs to move up to the southern wall of Mt. SOAN to set up an assault camp. See the diagram. The path goes up along the left stream (orographically) past large high-altitude lakes. The lakes are separated by powerful ascents consisting of: – large stones, – boulders, – rocks. Movement is hampered by depressions between boulders filled with snow. The path across the lakes goes directly across the ice and packed snow. The ascents are steep, and one has to gradually gain altitude, reversing along the slope. The ascent to the first lake, which resembles a flattened animal skin, provides a 350 m elevation gain. The ascent from the first lake to the second rises by 250 m, and the seemingly small peak behind the lake is recommended to be bypassed on the left side in the direction of travel. From the second lake, there is a 100 m ascent consisting of rock fragments and a rocky slope.