Dukdon — Central Peak, category 5B difficulty

Route Map

Description of the Ascent to Dukdon Peak, category 5B difficulty

The Dukdon peak, with an elevation of 5200 m, is located in the Fann Mountains of the Pamiro-Alay region. The Fann Mountains are characterized by fault-block structures without pronounced foldings. The main Zeravshan ridge lies aside. The Dukdon massif stretches approximately 15 km in a latitudinal direction and includes several peaks above 5000 m. The group targeted the central peak from which a southern spur branches off, transitioning into a parallel ridge. The approach to Dukdon begins from the village of Dji-Djik, where the motorable road ends. The route continues:

1. Along the Iskander-Darya River (3 hours).
2. Around Iskander-Kul Lake (1 hour).

Central Council “Zenit”

Traverse of Dukdon Massif (first ascent)

N 418, October 13, 1970 5B

Team Captain Moiseev Yu. Team Coach Baskin S.

2. Simonik A. G.
3. Druy M. G.
4. Pisarev K. L.
5. Solodkov Yu. K.
6. Kopenningene L.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages:

Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Area 5.3. Zeravshan Range. 3. Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m), via the right buttress of the North face. 4. 5-6 difficulty category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 970 m average steepness — 65°, section lengths: I difficulty level — 120 m, II difficulty level — 40 m, III difficulty level — 200 m, IV difficulty level — 430 m, V-VI difficulty level — 465 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock: 71, ice: 16, chocks: 14; for creating artificial anchors — rock: 3. 7. Total climbing hours — 24. 8. Two bivouacs on the route on platforms without a tent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS — technical.
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Skalnaya Stena, 5112, via the left part of the center of the North face.
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 810 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 220 m, «––» — 5th cat. diff. — 430 m,

53.3.

Passport

1. Class: Technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Matcha mountain junction, Darapioz valley
3. v. Akhun, 5224 m via Southeast wall
4. 6B cat. diff., second ascent
5. Elevation gain: 1470 m, length — 1750 m, length of sections with 5–6 diff. — 1010 m. Average steepness of main sections — 78° (3800–4830 m), including: 6 diff. — 540 m, 83° (4350–4830 m)
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :------- | :--------- | :------- | :------ |

Protocol 308 10.02.1970 3A – first ascent

Description of the ascent route to the peak Belaya via the northwestern edge (first ascent)

Group composition:

• ZHGILEV A.V. (leader)
• ABLESIMOV V.E.
• GITERMAN B.P.
• GLADILIN A.S.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Ascent Route with indication of peaks and their heights 4. Characteristics of the Ascent technically challenging route (Pamir-Alay) p.S. Andreeva from the northwest via bastion 5127 m a) height difference 1200 m including bastion wall 620 m b) average steepness (including ridge) 74° c) average steepness of the bastion wall 88° d) length of the most difficult sections 1000 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock 209, ice 7, bolt 13

8. Peak "25 лет Народной Польши" - 5207 m - via "Belyi Koni" mandarin 5A cat. diff. July 24, 1969 Kazimierz Głazek Tadeusz Piórowski Krzysztof Cieluch Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Noczowki" (see section for route description to "Polskie Noczowki") ascent via "Belyi Koni" mandarin (through snowy-ice fields, left ridge - 2 ropes on firm snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to rocky ridge. Climb 40 m on mandarin summit via crumbling talus with icing. Then sporty descent to the saddle behind the mandarin. From here:

• two ropes on crumbling rocky ridge with icing (steepness up to 70°),
• small ascent with ladder usage,
• further 50 m to the next ascent on similar ridge,
• traverse right and up about 20 m on practically sheer ice wall (live rocks),
• then 30 m of iced slabs with steepness up to 45° under big ridge ascent. Left, the ridge drops with vertical rock walls to Ak-Terek glacier, right of the ridge - iced slabs with steepness up to 50°.