Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).

I. Climbing category: combined technical 2. Climbing area: Fann Mountains 3. Белый Барс, 4505, via N. Ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, sections 5–6 cat. diff. 240 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 42, for artificial holds II, including 50 rock, 2 ice, 1 bolt, total 53. 7. Total climbing hours: 21 hours 8. Number of nights: 1, semi-reclining 9. Petrov Andrey Evgenievich — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Averyanov German Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor

12 ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL.
2. Ascent area: – 5.3. PAMIR-ALAI, Zeravshan Range, Malaya Ganza glacier valley.
3. Summit — BELY KLJUCH, 4900 m, via south-west face — FIRST ASCENT.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 877 m « — 6 cat. dif. — 127 m

In the western part of the Zeravshan range, between the basins of the Sev-Charya and Ktut-Charya rivers, a relatively isolated massif rises - the so-called Seven Lakes. The upper parts of this mountain node reach a height of 5500 m. Peaks exceeding 5000 m:

• Chishtarg - 5487 m
• Bolshaya Ranza - 5415 m
• JKCDOP - 5208 m
• Energiya - 5105 m and others (up to 10 peaks in total). The Seven Lakes occupy the space between the Zeravshan and Ryesassky ranges. Large glaciation in this area is predominantly found on the northern slopes. South of the upper Bolshaya Ranza, in the upper reaches of the Penander-Charya river, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the vast and very picturesque Lake Penander-Chul of dammed origin. This area is still little explored.

Sports group of MGS DSO "SPARTAK" gathering Serebryakova V. 2nd sports category — leader Bashkirov V. CMS, Ginzburg V. CMS, Klimashin V.V. 1st sports category, Bychkov A. 2nd sports category, Ponomarenko B. 1st sports category, Sadovnikov V. 1st sports category, Leonov K. 1st sports category — representative of a/l Varzab.

Ascents

1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Vilnius, 4120 m, first ascent via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 53°
   • Length of sections: R1–R100 m, R2–R160 m, R3–R530 m, R4–R200 m, R5–R200 m.

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Arga area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Heroes of the Kursk Battle (approximately) 4110 m via NW edge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 610 m length of sections with III–IV difficulty category — 300 m with an average steepness of 62° average steepness 41°

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
   • Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1330 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
   • average steepness — 72°.