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Report on the ascent to the summit of Zapadny Yarydag via the southern route of category 4B complexity, including a description of the path and characteristic features.

To the report on the ascent to v. No. Zap. Yarydag via the S wall. The photographs show the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the South. (photo 1 — Distant view, photo 2 — Close-up view). The route passes between the gendarmes "Zub" and the buttress, beyond which the SE wall of the peak begins. Thus, the route has natural limitations, and deviating from them is more challenging than the route itself. It is impossible to approach the first belay station from the side. The second belay station can be reached via the SE wall (see photo 3). Photo 3 shows the view of the peak Zap. Yarydag from the SE, from the Kurush pass. The profile of the buttress separating the S and SE walls is visible, with "Zub" peeking out from behind it. Although the route is not visible, the photograph gives an idea of the average steepness of the route — it should not be less than the average steepness of the buttress. On the right part of the SE wall, there is a couloir and a snowy slope, which some groups have used to descend from the peak. The first ascenders believe that the route is very logical, original (i.e., it does not repeat previously climbed routes and is not a variation of them), and deserves an assessment as a 4B category of difficulty route. Photo 1. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south (from the trail to Kurush pass). The SW buttress is on the left. Photo 2. 2nd Zap. peak of the Yarydag massif. View from the south, from under the route. Sections 5–6, 6–8, and 7–8 are practically not visible.

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Traverse of the peaks I-st Zapadnaya Epadaz (4020 m) and Main Yarudag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3825 m), difficulty category 2A, rock class.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — traverse I-st Western Erydag (4020 m) — Main Yaru-dag (4110 m) from Kurush pass (3925 m) 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 920–1010 m average slope — 50–60°, length of sections: R1 — 100, R2 — 150–200, R3 — 60, R4 — 300, R5 — 200, R6 — 100, R7 — 3000–3500 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating I.T.O. rock — 0, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 7 hours

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Description of the first ascent of Tемиргох (3926 m) mountain in the Caucasus via the south-eastern slope, category 2A, made in January 1997.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Winter category.
  2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Temir-otrog ridge, Nukatl ridge.
  3. Temirgokh, 3926, via the right part of the Southeast slope, combined route.
  4. 2A category difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 30°, 1st category difficulty - 650 m, 2nd category difficulty - 550 m, 3rd category difficulty - 650 m, 4th category difficulty - 40 m.
  6. Pitons were not used.
  7. Climbing time - 4 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay in a hut (2350 m) in the Temiror valley.
  9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich - CMS
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Climbing route description to the summit of Tlili-meer (2456 m) in Dagestan with a complexity category of 2B, including a detailed analysis of the path, required equipment, and characteristics of the mountain.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent area: 2.9.a, Dagestan mountains
  2. Ascent class: rock climbing
  3. Peak, its height: Tlili-meer, 2456 m
  4. Ascent route: via NW ridge and from S
  5. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
  6. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 40°, section lengths: Ia difficulty — 1000 m, Iб — 80 m, II — 80 m.
  7. Pitons: rock — 7, chocks — 2
  8. Number of nights and their characteristics: overnight stay behind Gogoтль village
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Description of the ascent route to Tliili-Meer Mountain (2457 m) via the northwestern ridge and wall, complexity category 2B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing area
  2. Ascent class
  3. Peak, its height
  4. Ascent route
  5. Estimated difficulty category
  6. Route characteristics
  7. Pitons driven:
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
  9. Surname of the leader and participants, their qualifications
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Ascent to the top of Tunsada (Dagestan) via a mixed ice-rock route, category 2B, starting from the North-Eastern Adдала glacier and following the Western ridge.

ASCENT DOCUMENT FIRST ASCENT

  1. The route is ice-rock
  2. 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (Eastern Caucasus)
  3. Ascent to peak Tunsada, 4013 m, from the North-Eastern Addala glacier and along the Western ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category – 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • length – 930 m
    • total elevation gain – 400 m
    • average slope – 40°
    • length of categorized sections:
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### Ascent Route to the 3rd Tower of Shalbuzdag East, Category 2B #### Route Overview and Recommendations for Climbers A detailed description of the ascent route to the 3rd tower of Shalbuzdag East, categorized as 2B in complexity. The route characteristics and recommendations are provided for experienced alpinists looking to tackle this challenging climb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — 2.9 Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Eastern Shambuzdag, 3rd tower (4060 m) from the south
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B No. 48105, May 22, 1979
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 560 m
    • average steepness — 55°–60°
    • length of sections: R1 — 600 m, R2 — 15 m, R3 — 20 m, R4 — 15 m, R5 — 30 m, R6 — 7 m, R7 — 40 m, R8 — 7 m, R9 — 5 m
  6. Pitons driven:
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Ascent of Shalbuzdag West (4105 m) via East Ridge, first ascent, grade 2.9a.

2.9А.43

WESTERN SHALBUZDAG (4105 m) VIA EASTERN RIDGE 3B TO TUR (FIRST ASCENT) ASCENT DETAILS

  1. Ascent category: combined
  2. Ascent area: 2–9 East Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western Shalbuzdag, approx. 4105 m, from the south to the col and via the Eastern ridge
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 900 m
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First ascent of Shalbuzdag North-West (4000 m) via the Western wall terrace, category 3B difficulty level, in Dagestan.

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

  • Elevation gain: 300 m.
  • Length of sections:
  • 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
  • 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
  • 4th category complexity — 90 m.
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Ascent of Malaya Ushba via the Northeast Ridge, grade 3B, first ascent by Nikolay Andreev's group in 1978.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

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